s/v Kaleo

Plans had been made the previous evening to take SYL up Pipe Creek, an area they can easily access with their shallow draft while most people have to visit by dinghy. Rusty and Linda were kind enough to host everyone aboard and show us around these new-to-us islands.

• We threaded through Pipe Creek toward Compass Cay and enjoyed lunch underway. Left-over spaghetti with Linda’s homemade sauce, fresh coleslaw made by Shane and Christie’s Reese’s Chocolate bars for dessert. It turned out to be one of the best cruising days yet as we:
• Pulled right up to the “jetsam beach,” a place where people had collected all the things jettisoned from boats and other stuff floating around and made an island monument. There were old life jackets, conch shells, shopping carts, signs and sail pieces, and even a guitar signed by no one famous. One especially cool feature of going on SYL is that they can beach their boat (it’s a catamaran), so we just pulled up a few yards from the beach and walked down the swim ladder to the beach front.

• Motored over an area of the sea floor that was covered with dozens of starfish, each seeming to twinkle in their own underwater way. Everyone was on deck yelling, there’s one, there’s another, ohh there’s a baby one …Too beautiful to pass by, we stopped to snorkel and Matt dove off the boat and pulled one up from the bottom on the first shot. Officially named “Lone Star”, we kept him onboard in a salt water bucket until we go back to our Staniel Cay anchorage where he was released near the boats for someone else to discover.

• Headed into Compass Cay to find the sharks our chart books talked about. We pulled in and tossed bread off the back which attracted swarms of fish and about a dozen nurse sharks (bottom feeders that don’t favor humans for snacks). They were so close that we could touch them despite screaming the whole time, half out of joy, half out of fear. Their skin was like wet leather and even though they’re benign bottom feeders, their beady eyes and slithering motion made them seem all shark.

• Cruised back to Staniel Cay by way of the Exuma Sound where Matt and Rusty rode on the bow and discussed boat design. Matt is really enjoying Rusty’s company and wisdom not just about cruising but about life as well.
• Snorkeled Thunderball Grotto, an amazing partially submerged cave featured in the James Bond movies, “Never Say Never Again” and “Thunderball” as well as the film, “Splash” . It was so surreal snorkeling through an underwater tunnel into a huge rock room with reef fish swimming all around you and the sun lighting the water through holes in the cave roof. Looking up at those holes inspired Shane and Matt to figure out a way to jump through them into the cave. They climbed up to the top from outside the cave and when all was clear below, jumped through an 8-foot hole encircled by jagged rocks plummeting down to the water about 25 feet below. A thunderous splash would accompany each landing as the cave walls were doused with water from the resulting waves and a few seconds later each guy would bubble to the surface with a grin bigger then the Cheshire Cat. We wrapped up our underwater adventures with a little more snorkeling through the giant fish bowl filled with parrotfish, triggerfish, sergeant majors and brain coral.

The evening wound down with an excellent steak and fish dinner prepared by Shane aboard his catamaran, s/v Guiding Light. Since he and SYL we’re rafted up (tied together swinging on just Guiding Light’s anchor) it was an easy step across to watch “The Illusionist” on the projector screen aboard SYL. There was no need for the A/C tonight as a cool island breeze whispered through the boat as seven content sailors relaxed after a hard day’s work.

12►

It was Super Bowl Sunday and while we’re not the face-painting sort of sport fans, we were all about finding a fun place to meet up with our cruising crew.

Staniel Cay was the spot so we pulled up the hook early at O’Briens Cay and got underway. This meant navigating back through the small cut we had passed through yesterday, but this time with some current and sun in our eyes. It was just as nerve racking as the first time but we went through easily and set course for Staniel Cay.

It was a beautiful morning as we drifted along clear blue waters and only got better by hearing “Storyville” hail “Sea Yawl Later” on the VHF radio. Rusty and Linda, aboard Sea Yawl Later, are good friends whom we met in Kemah just days before leaving the dock. Through our early-on engine issues, weather decisions and times of discouragement and celebration they have been only a phone call, email or facebook note away. We have a tremendous amount of respect and admiration for them and truly feel “home” in their presence. They had scooted passed us in Florida while we were in Houston for Christmas and we’ve been on a quest to see them ever since. Well, it turned out they were headed for Staniel Cay that afternoon as well so we were overjoyed to meet up with them again!

We knew Staniel was getting close as a stream of boats were all headed in the same direction and every time we looked behind us another few had joined the pack. Seems like most cruisers in the area were on their way to catch the big game. This proved true as we pulled into the anchorage to see boats coming and going, at anchor and tied to every dock around, with dinghies zipping about like hummingbirds on Red Bull.

Staniel Cay is home to “Thunderball Grotto” made famous by the James Bond movie “Thunderball”, “Never Say Never Again” as well as “Splash”. Kaleo motored passed the grotto and we threaded through the intricate web of boats in the anchorage to find ourselves a spot with plenty of room. It took a few tries to really get the hook set well but once it did the boat jerked back on the anchor chain like an excited puppy on a short leash.

Naps were in order first, then it was into town to check out the scene. As we came up on deck, country music started to drift across the waves getting louder and louder. A little puzzled, we looked around to see which boat was playing it, but most near us were empty (aka their dinghies were gone). The volume grew as we spotted a pink spinnaker sail puffed up like a hot air balloon on the southern horizon. We’d been on the lookout for a pink spinnaker as that was what Sea Yawl Later was flying and when old school country tunes came upon us we knew it was them!

Rusty and Linda know how to make a Texas-size entrance. They came sailing into Staniel with a huge PA style speaker on deck, music blaring and sails full. Overcome with excitement, we couldn’t wait to see them. As Rusty wove through the boats like Sea Yawl Later was on rails, Linda came on the VHF with “Kaleo, Kaleo where are you?!” A quick VHF exchange and they were dropping the hook nearby.

While they settled into the anchorage, we and Storyville, headed toward town, spotted a few Southern Sting Rays on the way and tied the dinghies at Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Stepping onshore was like stepping into the quintessential tropical movie scene. Jimmy Buffet warbled over the speakers as folks in swimsuits and flip-flops sipped rum punches and Kalik beers perched atop brightly colored stools at the outdoor bar. Local kids ran around the palm trees entertaining themselves, oblivious to the many travelers who had come to see the paradise they call home. From super yacht owners to local fisherman, the whole gamut was here and enjoying island life to the fullest.

After talking with a few folks about spots for the Super Bowl we started walking down a one lane road towards “town.” Golf carts are a popular mode of transporation around here and a few came humming by, drivers offering friendly waves and smiles. We drifted past a few rental cottages (www.stanielcaycottages.com) and the Taste and See bar that had 6 big screen TV’s tuned into the pre-game shows. Remembering it as a potential spot for the evening, we walked down to the bakery (a little yellow house with a plywood sign that says “Bread”) and by the church. Vibrant red and orange Bougainvillea were along every corner and just as brightly painted houses were a warm reminder that this is what we have been sailing toward.

After checking out the area, we decided that Staniel Cay Yacht Club would be our place to catch the game and more importantly, visit with friends so we walked back to get a table. Walking in we were consumed by the burgees (boat flags) hung from every inch of the ceiling and yacht name plates and conch shells perched on every shelf. After waiting around and helping the waitress set-up the dining area, we were rewarded a prime 7-person table right in front of a TV. Kaleo, Storyville, See Yawl Later, and their buddy boat Guiding Light now had a place to gather for the game. Matt and I held the table while the restaurant/bar started to fill up with cruisers from every destination. We talked with folks we’d met in Nassau, Allen’s Cay, Warderick Wells and Emerald Rock. Our crew arrived and after a warm round of hugs we all swapped stories, shared pictures and happy hour until the game started. The evening was spent cheering on the teams, enjoying the Bahamian dinner of roast beef, BBQ chicken, cranberry rice, corn on the cobb and fresh salad with lemon and ginger dressing, finished off with homemade lemon meringue pie and chocolate cake. Whew!

We were near sensory overload after having not seen TV nor being around that many people in months so after the game, we retired to Kaleo for the night. The night was topped off with a Packers win that made us smile as my brother, Casey, has been such a die-hard fan for as long as I can remember and Steve from Anchor Management was all about the Green and Yellow :o).

N 24° 10.53 / W 76° 26.93

Turns out Warderick Wells had more for us to see before we would continue on southward.

Planning to be at Bell Island by noon, we dropped our mooring ball at Warderick Wells and motored out towards open water. The wind was blowing at about 18-20 knots (a bit stronger than forecast) and almost dead on the nose. When combined with 3-4 seas it made a very uncomfortable ride. Waves were coming over the bow and the wind would blow the water, soaking the jib. After about 30 minutes of bashing toward our destination, we conferred with Storyville on the VHF and decided to turn in for Emerald Rock. Everyone agreed that the sailing wasn’t particularly fun and we weren’t interested in getting beat up all day. So, both boats picked up a mooring ball at Emerald Rock, which is only about a half mile from Warderick Wells and shares the same island.

With boats secured, we packed lunches and headed for the beach. Morning slipped leisurely into late afternoon as we lounged under a canopy of shade trees surrounded by waves gently lapping toward us in front and rocky cliffs leading to hiking trails behind.

In need of a few more cold drinks and to square up our additional night on the ball, Christie took the dinghy out with Deana and started to get comfortable driving it on her own. Later on, Matt said he knew we were having fun as he heard the dingy motor rev to full throttle in no time.

During the day we had spotted a floating swim platform tied to a mooring ball just off the beach and agreed that it was the perfect spot to watch for the green flash at sunset. The invite was passed to a few other nearby boats who quickly joined us. Troy brought his guitar, new friends were made and we all enjoyed the impromptu concert. Though the green flash was elusive, sunset was gorgeous and the company was superb. After dark, we and Storyville stayed on the dock till way past Matt’s bedtime. But it became one our favorite cruising nights so far, as the conversations turned to life, living and doing it all unconventionally. It was fun looking back on the start of the day to see how not sticking to a schedule or plan led to some of the best times yet.

Saturday morning, CP (Chris Parker) gave a clear forecast and the conditions looked benign so we dropped the mooring ball early and picked up where we left off yesterday. The sea was calm and we were back on our way to Bell Island. After dropping the hook and surveying the anchorage we decided it really wasn’t a great spot and decided to look for another. It was a small area right in front of a private island that we weren’t allowed ashore and there wasn’t any snorkeling nearby so plan b was in order.

The next spot on our list was O’Brien Cay but first we had to pass through the most narrow cut yet. Kaleo had to be guided through a narrow underwater ditch about 20 feet wide, with rocks on one side and a shallow shoal on the other. The depth on the chart showed only about 2 feet under the keel. Storyville, who has a much shallower draft, was kind enough to go first and check the depths. After an “all clear” on the VHF from them and with Christie on the bow to watch for underwater obstructions and give guidance accordingly, Matt motored us slowly through the cut. Shouting directions like “A little to port, not so much, ok, forward, back toward starboard” we snuck through the cut unscathed and a lot more confident for having done it.

A bit later we dropped the hook next to a deserted but private island and had lunch on deck. With dinghies packed with snorkel gear, we scooted toward the Sea Aquarium Coral Garden marked on the chart. A few minutes of mental coaxing to brave the relatively cold water and we dove in to be instantaneously surrounded by Sargent Majors (little yellow striped fish). The water was alive with vibrant and curious schools of reef fish scurrying to our swim pace throughout the coral. A stingray hovered near the sea floor and neon blue fish darted back and forth each time we kicked a flipper. The natural wonder quickly erased our cold water worry and click, click, click, went our new underwater camera. Most of the time the fish were so thick that we could barely get a picture of each other underwater without our photogenic little friends taking up most of the frame.

After our fill of snorkeling the reef, we set out to find a submerged plane nearby. About 200 yards from where Kaleo was anchored we spotted a buoy marking the site of the plane silently rusting away under the water’s surface. It was a little too creepy to fully dive in but we hung over the dinghy, tucking slightly underwater to see the fuselage and wings resting upside down, a telltale from some fateful event.

After getting cleaned up we made plans to cook Chicken Vindaloo aboard Kaleo for Deana and Troy. After dinner and mapping out next route, it was off to bed with plans for an early departure toward Staniel Cay to find a spot to watch the Superbowl.

24° 23.07 N / 76° 37.48 W

Refreshed from a good night’s sleep, Nassau welcomed us on Friday with warm sunshine and the hustle and bustle of city life humming on the waterfront.

Christie has a Bahamian friend from grad school who grew up in Nassau and whose family still lives here. She connected us with her dad who not only owns a marina and marine store but who also is incredibly knowledgeable about Nassau and the islands as their family has rich history throughout the area. We started the day by walking to their marina to meet up with him and were welcomed with offers to help in any way.

It was decided that we would move our boat, as well as our friends’, Storyville and Anchor Management, to Bayshore Marina. It was time to move the herd, but we had to act quickly as the tide was was starting to go out which creates a very fast moving current in Nassau Harbour. Moving the boats turned out to be quite the rodeo, but thankfully no one was hurt and we were all soon tied safely to the docks.

After getting the boats secure, it was time to explore a little of Nassau. The first stop was the Bahamian Telephone Company (BaTelCo) office to get a SIM card for our cell phone. Skype and email are still the best ways to keep in touch for us because the mobile rates are quite expensive but we now have a Bahamian number as back-up. ($15 for the SIM card + a $50 card of minutes at $0.60 – $.70/minute to the states). We also discovered complimentary (with purchase) WiFi at the Esso gas station and cafe across the street from the marina and at the Starbucks down the road.

We then took a jitney (bus) to the harbor customs office to try and resolve being overcharged when clearing in. It was 3:30 and we learned that the office closes at 4:00 so we were on the run from the jitney stop to the office to try and make it in time. We made it with 15 minutes to spare but the officer we spoke with told us to come back on Monday to deal with it. After explaining to him that we wouldn’t be here on Monday, he said that the harbour customs office didn’t have the right forms and that we’d need to go across town to another customs office. Making it clear we weren’t leaving until something was resolved, he made a few calls and had the form faxed over, explained to us what we needed to fill out and signed the form. Frustrated, but with some progress made, we walked back to the boat with plans to turn the forms in at the main office the next day, which was open until noon.

That evening our friend Jen’s parents picked us up and took us out to dinner at The Green Parrot. We all enjoyed a delicious meal in an beautiful outdoor courtyard while laughing and conversing over boating, their family history, our adventures in cruising, Texas and the beauty of the Exumas. It was a special treat to meet friends in Nassau and to hear about their home islands.

Saturday morning started with Matt and Steve, from Anchor Management, heading out to find the main customs office and another BaTelCo office to get Steve’s SIM card. Half of their day was spent walking and hopping on different jitneys migrating their way through the maze of Nassau to the main customs office on the other side of the island. Once found, they discovered that while the office was open until noon, the “refunds department” was closed until Monday and none of the officials on duty were willing to accept the paper work for the refunds office. Once again we were frustrated by all the hassle and inaccurate information. Someone in the office (not sure if he worked there or not) told us that we can email the forms in. We’ll give that a try but who knows how long it will take or if we’ll ever get the refund. At this point, we’ve given the effort enough of our time and will hope for the best with emailing as $150 is a pretty significant amount for us. The guys then hit up the local mall to get Steve’s SIM card and then took another few jitneys back to the marina.

Back at the boat, the whole crew, Troy, Deana, Steve and ourselves headed out to see Potters Cay Fish and Produce Market and whatever else we could discover. At the market we enjoyed a lunch of fresh conch salad (raw conch, cucumber, green pepper and onion, with various citrus juices and spicy chile), conch fritters, peas ‘n rice and plantains, and then shopped for fresh produce while Deana snapped some photos of our explorations.

Next, it was on to the check out the Straw Market and cruise ship wharf, which turned out to be as touristy as we expected, but we dipped into a few shops and enjoyed a rum tasting while taking in the sights. Touristaville wasn’t quite our scene so we jumped aboard another jitney and made our way back to the marina. We wrapped up the day with topping off our diesel tanks, chart swapping with Steve, dinner and catching up on the internet.

The northerner that we have been waiting out in Nassau should pass by Sunday afternoon so the plan is to head to Allens Cay (pronounced Key) bright and early on Monday morning.