s/v Kaleo

Saturday, March 12th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Friday arrived with one thing on our mind. The results of the races were to be announced that evening at the Regatta Awards Ceremony.

We won 1st Overall in our class!

“Around the Island” Race Crew with 2nd place finish flag, custom caps & bottle o’ rum

“SYL” volunteered to be the water taxi back to Volleyball Beach, allowing us to leave our boats in Red Shanks. The gals headed to the beach for the info-session “Eating Well While Cruising” and the guys dinghyied into St. Francis Resort to track down Internet. They soon returned to the beach where Matt was recruited to play a round of tug-o-war.

As the cooking class wrapped up the guys smelled the food being prepared and we all decided it was time for an early dinner. We feasted on racks of ribs and fresh Grouper at the Chat N’ Chill moments before the awards were to be announced.

Admirals and Captains enjoying dinner & sundowners at Chat ‘N’ Chill

The guys were too antsy to sit, so they hovered behind us on the beach as the first round of awards were called out. The “longest fish caught underway” went to “Guiding Light” who caught a Mahi, the first fish to be caught in the race in the last three years! Various awards for photographs taken during the races were handed out next and the well-deserved “baking underway” prize went to our very own, Deana, who made her famous cheesecake, which was voted first place by all three judges!

Then it was time for the multi-hull results. First up, the “In Harbor Race”. Third place was “Sun Burst”, the crowd applauded and we drew in a breath. Second place, “Guiding Light”. And taking first place, by 8 seconds … “Sea Yawl Later!” We all jumped up and ran forward to hoist the huge 1st place pennant (flag) awarded to Rusty and crew.

Pictures, cheering, and awards for the other boat classes and soon enough we were back in the same place waiting on the results of the “Around the Island Race”.

Third place went to “Guiding Light”. Second place to “Sea Yawl Later” and first place to “Sun Burst” with only a 20-second lead. While another first place would have been great, “SYL” won first place overall with a first and second place finish. Congratulations and talks of next year’s race filled the canopy under the trees as we all reveled in the fun of racing a craft powered only by the wind.

“SYL” nearly floated above the water on the ride home as we all laughed, joked and held out the immense first place flag.

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GT Regatta “Around the Island” Race

Wednesday, March 09th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

The Kaleo crew was up early to enjoy a warm and filling breakfast of Migas before boarding “SYL” at 8:30 to prep for the day’s race.

The “Around the Island Race” is an 18.5 mile course that starts and ends in Elizabeth Harbour and makes a circle around Lee Stocking Island with more than half of the sailing in the open waters of the Exuma Sound.

The next hour and half was a flurry of activity as lunches were made, gear was secured, sails were hoisted and “SYL” was tacking and jibing through the harbor. Each crew member prepped for their assigned duties with Rusty at the wheel and mainsheet for upwind, Matt at the wheel and starboard jib sheet for downwind, Ted on the port jib sheet and camera for our photography entries, Christie on the port jib when Ted was snapping photos and thinking through how to make the dessert for the baking entry in 5′-7′ seas.

Ted taking timing notes

“SYL” found her groove and the race horn sounded as we blazed toward the start line, crossing just behind “Guiding Light” and “Sun Burst.” Having run the course a few times before, “SYL” knew where she needed to be as Matt kept her in the wind slot for the fastest speed. Rusty and Ted trimmed sheets as Christie shouted the distance behind and ahead of our competitors, and we all melded into race mode.

Crew of “SYL” underway

Rounding the in-harbour marks (buoys that denote the race course), the bows were pointed toward the open water of Exuma Sound as we plowed forward into ever growing seas. The overnight winds had built large 5′-7′ rolling seas and white froth would spray over “SYL” as we sailed down the back of each one. More than once Matt had to run out front to adjust a line and every time the water would wash over him like it was spit out of a blender.

Matt and Ted adjusting the downhaul on the wet foredeck

When all the other boats in our class tacked out to stay away from shore, Rusty decided to try and save some time by staying in close. The advantage was less current and better wind to continue on course but the disadvantage was sailing breath-holdingly close to the jagged cliffs of smalls cays that could have quickly put an end to our race that day (not to mention any sailing thereafter.)

The captain proved himself to be made of steel as “SYL” came within about 30 feet of the rocky outcroppings while we maintained a very tight course. At one point we could feel the spray ricocheting off the rocks with each wave crash. Rusty was confident in his vessel’s ability to point high enough into the wind to stay clear of the danger. The rest of us pretty much said our prayers, held our breath and waited to jump on any command that would signal evasive action. Once the danger had passed, we all agreed that it was a move that just might have put us as top contenders in our class.

Trusty Captain Rusty

Not willing to give up an inch by patting ourselves on the back, we rounded the final mark and set course for the finish line by twisting, tweaking and trimming every sail for maximum speed. Within minutes, we sailed across the finish line and back into island style, lazily returning to the anchorage area to unwind. Linda and Mili had been prepping a late lunch and we soon were dining like monarchy aboard “Morning Glory”. Full enough to warrant a nap, but almost late for the post-race party, our dinghies ferried us to St. Francis where crews gathered to share stories and strategies of the race. It was an incredible sunset on Gaviota Bay as we looked at all the race photos displayed, tasted the “baking underway” entries, and sipped sundowners with good company.

The race crew of “SYL”. Stance inspired by the movie “Wind”.

We returned to Kaleo with great anticipation for Friday evening’s Regatta Awards Ceremony where the final results of the races and contests would be announced.

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Laundry N’ Hiking in GT

Tuesday, March 08th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Certain days are perfect domestic days, and those are usually the ones when the wind is dead so the dinghy rides will be dry.

Monday lived up to its forecast as there wasn’t a ripple on the water’s surface. After breakfast and a visit from the pump-out boat, we met Mili from “Morning Glory” and Shane from “Guiding Light” in town to try out a laundromat we’d heard about. Though it was a long way from the dinghy dock, the owner offered to give us a ride there and back. Bonus is that it is next door to a small convenient store and a deli with an ice cream shop inside. Since cruising is about adventures large and small, we loaded the laundry into the back of a pick-up, jumped in and were off for an open air tour of lower George Town.

Folding laundry at Barinki Wash

Upon arriving, we walked into a brand new, sparkling clean laundromat with row after row of washers and driers that only cost $2.50 per wash or dry. Everyone got their dirty laundry spinning and we headed over to the deli for sandwiches. With a menu like Subway, everyone ordered a sub and grabbed a cold natural tea (a rare treat these days). Mili pulled out Bananagrams and taught us to play this fun, Scrabble-like word game the occupied our time until it was time to switch the clothes into the dryers. A few more rounds of BG, folding clothes over Fox News and then it was back in the truck for the return ride to our dinghies.

While off doing laundry, Steve on “Anchor Management” had been kind enough to fill up and drop off a few water jerry jugs for us. Matt poured those into the tanks, then buzzed back to the dinghy dock to refill them for another round.

After tanks were full it was off to “SYL” to practice making the dessert for the Regatta’s upcoming “Around the Island Race”, in which there’s a “baking while underway” competition. Amy, on “Crow’s Nest”, had passed along a superb bread-pudding recipe that was the basis for our planned dessert. A few hours in the galley under the excellent guidance of Linda and warm Bahamian bread pudding with butter rum sauce was ready for a tasting. Matt and Rusty were our official judges for the night and their vote was cast with two bowls each.

All with full bellies, Rusty flipped on a fun movie, “Keeping the Faith” projected onto their 60″ screen and we settled in for an enjoyable evening. Meeting and cruising with folks like Rusty and Linda, as well as the rest of the Navy, has made this trip even more incredible. The chance to have such strong friendships and be able to enjoy each other’s company nearly every day turns sailing through the Bahamas into truly living among friends and family in the Bahamas.

Refreshed from a peaceful night’s sleep, we enjoyed Christie’s coconut bread french toast and then met up with “Storyville” on the beach to hike Monument Hill. The highest point in the Exuma chain of islands, Monument Hill affords beautiful views of Lee Stocking Island, the Exuma Sound and all the boats anchored around George Town. We took the long trail to the top passing by sandy beaches and winding through dense mangroves to meet Steve at the top. Atop the hill we climbed around on the namesake for Monument, a large concrete tower reaching for the sky and took pictures from every angle. A lone boat was sailing past in the Exuma Sound and we quickly recognized it as “Sea Yawl Later.” Rusty had gone out to test a few sail configurations for the upcoming “Around the Island Race”.

Exuma Sound beach

Climbing down from Monument Hill

Sea Yawl Later sailing in the sound

The north end of Lee Stocking Island

Later in the afternoon, we returned to our respective boats to refuel and recharge. Then, it was off to dinghy explore a nearby anchorage called Red Shanks. Ted and Mili (Morning Glory) were kind enough to lend us their dinghy, which is much faster and provides a drier ride, so we zoomed off to see some new-to-us territory. Though the wind and waves picked up before we made it all the way into Red Shanks, we saw enough to make plans to move Kaleo over after the “Around the Island Race” on Wednesday.

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In-Harbour Regatta Race

Saturday, March 05th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Recharged and ready for the day, we enjoyed a warm and filling breakfast of Migas, then dinghyied over to “Morning Glory” and “Sea Yawl Later” who were rafted up together.

The “SYL” crew ready to race

It was the Regatta’s “In-Harbor Race” Day and Matt was crewing aboard “SYL” with Ted from “Morning Glory” under the trusty Captain Rusty.

The guys prepped the boat and soon sailed off leaving the Admirals aboard “Morning Glory” to cheer on the team and enjoy some girl time.

The In-Harbour Race is two laps around a race course marked by large floating buoys and involves sailing both up and down wind. This type of course means that each boat/team will have to make multiple tacks and jibes in order to successfully run the course, which translates into a lot of work for each crew member.

Three fleets of mono-hulls started, then the gun sounded for the multi-hull race as five catamarans sped toward the start line (in a sailboat race the boats are already sailing and can cross the line after the gun but not before, so each team tries to time it as close as possible).

“SYL” crossed the start third in their class and were disappointed as their start had given the leader at least 20 seconds on them. Over the next hour, boats of all sizes and colors battled for the best time on the course.

At one point, “SYL” was neck-in-neck with two other cats, “Guiding Light” and a St. Francis 50, “Penelope”, but in the end, the St. Francis pulled away from “SYL” and “SYL” shouldered in front of “Guiding Light.”

Once more around the marks and “SYL” was third cross the finish line with country music blaring from the loud speaker. Each boat has a (PHRF) rating to help level the playing field, otherwise it would be no contest for the 33 foot “SYL” to compete with the 50 foot St. Francis, as the bigger the boat, the faster it can typically go. The official results won’t be released until the Friday night results party but according to our calculations we think “SYL” came in first or second place.

If there was an award for having the most fun underway, the guys on “SYL” would taken top prize. Their music filled the harbor and had other racers dancing on deck while the guys practiced their “Wind”-inspired choreographed race chants and stance.

The Texas Navy at the Regatta Post Race Party

After the race, we napped and then headed up to the post-race party at St. Francis Resort where “all the racers tell stories about how well they did.” After spinning a few yarns and talking with others, we dinghied home as Matt grumbled about his sore back, neck, shoulders and arms, all from grinding on the winches. He won the prize for first one to bed and soon thereafter, we we’re both sound asleep.

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A Drag of a Night

Friday, March 04th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Friday was an R ‘n’ R day aboard Kaleo. Not only were we wiped out from the action of the Coconut Harvest, but we had a eventful and restless Thursday night.

The calm waters before the evening winds picked up

At about midnight, our anchor drag alarm sounded and Matt popped his head out of the companionway to survey the situation. The anchor drag alarm is a handheld GPS with a pre-set radius which goes off if the boat moves beyond a certain distance. We set the alarm in tight anchorages (too many boats close together) or in strong winds as a way to alert us should the anchor come unset. Both conditions were the case for our George Town anchorage.

Matt stuck his head below and said “we’re dragging” over the howl of 25+ knot winds. At a calm but quick pace we started the motor, turned on the depth sounder and dug out the spot light. Several boats were anchored behind us that we needed to avoid dragging into.

Though the hook reset it self and stopped the boat, it placed us uncomfortably close to other vessels. So through hand signals, our hand held radios and shouting over the clamor of the anchor chain being raised we negotiated our way through the sleeping boats out into open and deeper water.

After twenty minutes of motoring around to find a good place that was clear of other boats, we dropped the hook with about 125 feet of chain out (vs. the 70 feet we had down before). Once the hook was firmly set, we fell into an on-and-off sleep while Matt got up every couple of hours to check our position.

We owe a huge thank you to Storyville who responded to our call, offered help, and stayed on the radio with us until the hook was reset. The hook held through the night with no problems and in the morning we moved back to our original spot with more scope.

Later in the afternoon, Morning Glory mentioned there was a calm and protected spot over near them so we picked up the hook and reset closer to the beach and in smooth water. Dead tired and with the in-harbor race the next day, we sunk into the v-berth and slept soundly thorough the night.

Dragging anchor is a reality of cruising and every windy night we hear someone on the radio having the same problem. It’s certainly not something we’d like to experience again and we’re grateful that no damage was done. Matt attributed the anchor working loose to not enough chain out (though we couldn’t put any more because of the proximity of other boats) and the strong wind shifts.

It was a stressful situation for both of us, yet it proved once again, the strength of the bonds we’ve made out here. The following day our “Fleet Family” stopped by to check on us, see if we needed anything and offer reassurance that Kaleo was securely anchored once again.

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The Coconut Challenge

Thursday, March 03rd, 2011 / Christie & Matt

It was an action-packed morning as Kaleo teamed up with Steve on “Anchor Management” and Erin on “SYL” to enter the “Texas Navy” in this year’s Cruising Regatta’s Coconut Challenge!

Team “Texas Navy”

We listened to the weather report on the morning net as we gathered all the supplies for the morning’s race. Flippers-to-be-used-as-propulsion. Check. Bucket-to-be-used-offensively-as-well-as-defensively. Check. Life jackets. Check. Empty our dink off all its contents. Check. Then it was off to Anchor Management to meet up with Steve, remove our dinghy motor and oars, and tow it to secure a prime starting position on the beach by 8:30.

Matt and Steve chose a spot that looked like the best launch pad for the first challenge and then it was back to Anchor Management to finish breakfast and strategize.

The Coconut Challenge consisted of four events:

The “Coconut Dinghy Harvest” where teams of four paddle an engineless dink with swim fins and scoop up as many coconuts as possible as they drift with only four total appendages allowed in the water at any time. “Any protests or challenges to the rules must be made in writing on a ripe coconut and tossed into Elizabeth Harbor on the first full moon following Regatta.”
The “Coconut Hatch Toss” where we each attempted to throw a coconut through a small boat hatch hung above the volleyball net
“Coconut Bowling” with the goal of each knocking over an empty Kalik (Bahamian beer) bottle
The “Coconut Ring Toss” where we each lobbed a coconut over the volleyball net trying to land it in one of three rope rings

It was a running start from the beach and all 35+ teams were in the water desperately flipper paddling for coconuts floating and drifting in the wind-swept waters. We worked together as Steve and Christie propelled the dink while Erin and Matt reached for the floating points. The whole time being bumped, splashed and jostled by other competitors. “The Navy” rocked as we scooped 65 coconuts onboard before returning to the finish line.

Pre-race briefing

Our coconut capture

Moving over to Volleyball Beach, we didn’t do as well in the Hatch Toss or Bowling but Erin landed a ‘nut in the 3-point ring during the Ring Toss. Ultimately, we had a blast and couldn’t have asked for better team mates.

Coconut Hatch Toss

Coconut Ring Toss

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Domestic Wednesday

Wednesday, March 02nd, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Even living in earthly paradise requires household chores and Wednesday was a perfect domestic day as the harbor was glass-like without a ripple of wind on its surface.

It’s these type of days that make for the driest and fastest dinghy rides into town, so we took full advantage of it.

The day started off a little rough as Christie took a tumble out of the companionway and smacked her check on the winch. She recovered quickly but will suffer a bruise below the eye and lost a little skin from her leg. But she toughed it out and bounced up to head out for beach yoga taught by Erin. We’re so enjoying her company and yoga expertise.

Matt took the time to do another round of water with the jerry jugs (have we mentioned that were really excited for the watermaker). After yoga, we both headed into town to have the propane tanks filled, get gas for our outboard motor and grocery shop before the winds picked up and the forecast storm settled over us.

Getting propane George Town-style was a new experience as about 35 cruisers and locals all gathered in a dirt parking lot a half hour before 11:00 to wait for the propane truck to arrive that comes every Wednesday. Nearly on time, it lumbered into the lot ready to distribute its payload to our awaiting bottles. Another hour later, our tanks were topped up and we were off to the Exuma Market for some fresh produce.

The weekly propane truck

We all gathered at the boat ramp near the end of Lake Victoria

Leaving the market, the sky foretold of a torrential rain blowing towards us. So we hedged our bets, tossed the groceries in the dink and gunned it toward Kaleo on the other side of the harbor. It’s a good 20 minute ride with the dink loaded down and we could see the rain line marching toward us. A quick prayer got us back to the boat just before the rain started and upon arrival, we discovered that all of our ports and hatches had been closed up tight by a helpful elf. Later we learned that Deana had been sweet enough to come over and close the boat up, knowing that we were still in town. The Navy certainly has a wonderful way of watching out for one another.

Just as we handed the groceries into the companionway, the rain reached us and began to rinse the boat of salt and sand. Matt took a break in the rain to scurry over to Anchor Management to lend a hand with a malfunctioning wi-fi extender. While out, the next round of rain found Matt mid-way through the trip and quickly washed him of all the day’s salt and sand as well.

The rain and wind continued as Chris Parker voiced an updated forecast over the VHF, “the rain would eventually subside but the wind would increase.” It’s nice having the weather guru as a neighbor in the harbor. The weather blowing in earlier than forecast was disappointing as the Regatta Kick-Off Beach Bash was planned to start at 5:00. A few brave dinghy pilots headed in for the start of the party but most of us stayed aboard to hear if it was still a go. The rum punches and Sand’s were flowing on time but dinner had been delayed so we could hear the volume increase from the early party-goers but held out in hopes of dinner to accompany the libations. In the end, dinner wasn’t cancelled but Matt took one for the Kaleo team and headed in for a short while to pick up our dinners before bashing back through the 25 knot winds to enjoy dinner together in a warm, dry home.

Beach Bash dinner tickets. (We did get more than ‘a fry’ ;o).

It will be early to rise for the Coconut Challenge tomorrow so we’ll tuck in early for a windy night’s rest.

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Regatta Kick-Off

Tuesday, March 01st, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Tuesday dawned bright and sunny and the day began with morning yoga overlooking the Exuma Sound at Kavalli House. Thanks again to our lovely personal yogi, Erin, for taking us through another centering and challenging session in such a spectacular setting.

Striking a pose at Kevalli House

Unstriking pose at Kevalli House

Crouching into Crow

Overlooking the Exuma Sound from Kevalli House

Returning from yoga

While the gals zenned out with yoga, the guys took care of a few errands. Steve lent Matt a hand with our water jerry cans in his much faster dinghy, making what would have been an hour plus trip into a quick 30 minutes (We’re counting down the days until our 20GPH watermaker arrives). With Kaleo nearly topped up with water, it was time to get ready for the Regatta Dinghy Parade and Poker Run.

Upon pulling up to Volleyball Beach, we saw dinghies and drivers adorned with the glitz and glimmer of “Pure Gold,” the theme for this year’s regatta. Gold wigs, anchors, flags, shirts and shorts were all in theme as about 50 dinghies made chaotic circles waiting for the start. There were a few dinghies that didn’t follow the theme but were so well decorated that it only added to the spectacle. There were a few crews of pirates, arrgghhhhing as they jousted with each other and Zero to Cruising teamed up with another couple in full army gear with palm fronds camouflaging their dinghies. All the pageantry signaled that regatta week had officially started and everyone was in it to win it.

Regatta Kick-off with Dinghy Parade

Just after the parade, we teamed up with Steve of Anchor Management to take on the Dinghy Poker Run, a harbor-crisscrossing-card-collecting-pub-crawl. The goal of the Poker Run is to get the best poker hand by drawing one card from each station, each station being in a different part of the island.

At our first station, Eddie’s Edgewater Grill, we drew a 4 of clubs and so began an afternoon of dinghy dashing, in zigzag fashion, to collect our remaining four cards. After Eddie’s, we buzzed back across the harbor (a 10 minute dinghy ride), with salt spray splashing our game faces to Alvin’s Snack Bar, where we drew another club and our next destination of Denny’s Snack Bar. Back across the harbor. Denny’s, like all other checkpoints, offered a Poker Run drink special and after drawing our third club, we took a break to enjoy a round of Bahama Mama Punch. With three clubs in hand, the hunt for a flush was on.

Dinghy Poker Run Second Checkpoint, Alvin’s Snack Bar

Our draw from Alvin’s

Our next stop was St. Francis Resort so it was back in the dink and back across the harbor where luck was with us and we drew the fourth club. Our last jaunt across the harbor to Palm Bay Resort was filled with anticipation, as a flush would surely win us the grand prize of $175. We beached the dink, stopped at the free appetizer station (conch fritters and grouper fingers) then sauntered over to the poker station. We each tried to convince the other that it was their turn to pick the last card but settled for a couple rounds of “Rock, Paper, Scissors-style draw” to decide who would blindly finish our hand. It was as if the room hushed when we reached for the card, and with deliberate hesitation, the card was flipped to reveal a king of diamonds. A collective groan from our team and a round of Rum Punch to lament, wrapped up our almost-win of the Dinghy Poker Run. We were even offered a couple rounds of complimentary colorful Jell-O shots to ease the sting.

Dinghy Poker Run, St. Francis Resort

Our final hand

After a full day of sun, salt and bouncing around in the dink, we skipped the beach-side meet and greet in favor of seafood dinner aboard and an early bedtime. Believe it or not, we’re having to pace ourselves in this jam-packed regatta schedule.

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Regatta Registration Day

Monday, February 28th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Imagine a warm, tropical beach with a dense row of dinghies clung to its shoreline like ants on their hill. Now, picture twice that amount of cruisers scurrying atop the sand visiting rows of decorated tables while the sounds of Bob Marley and Jimmy Buffet float over the surf. At each station, eager volunteers are ready to help sign you up for just about any activity you could want at a seaside summer camp.

This is Registration Day and the start of the 31st Annual George Town Cruising Regatta.

Regatta Registration Day

Visiting with Mike and Rebecca of Zero to Cruising

Amongst the scramble, we spent the morning signing up for a slew of activities planned for the upcoming weeks. We’ll post more details as the events take place but we’re teaming up as the “Texas Navy” to participate in Adult Field Day activities like the Dinghy Parade, Dinghy Poker Run and the Coconut Challenge, a series of events involving, you guessed it, coconuts. We’re also putting on our game faces to crew aboard “SYL” in the “Around Stocking Island Race” as well as the “In-Harbour Race”. Each day will also be filled with various info sessions on topics ranging from “Weather” and “Dinghies A to Z” to “Researching the Bucket List” and “Winning Fishing in the Bahamas”. And some nights will be spent at social gatherings on the beach.

Signing the annual GT Regatta Mural

After sign-ups, we boarded “SYL” for a practice run on the race course. Rusty, Matt and Ted ran half the course while practicing key tacks and downwind maneuvers. Though we’ve been sailing at a cruising pace for the past several months aboard Kaleo, it only took a moment to bounce back into race mode as we prepare for the big boat race on Saturday. Rusty piloted “SYL” as Matt and Ted trimmed sails and all discussed the best way to rig the jib for race day. When we were satisfied with our practice, we returned to the harbor planning what dessert to make for the “baking underway” part the race. Yes, there are subcategories of “Best Dessert Baked Underway”, “Longest Fish Caught Underway”, and “Best Photograph Taken Underway” in the Regatta race.

By the time we were back aboard Kaleo, it was time for dinner, showers and winding down for the night.

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George Town, Bahamas

Sunday, February 27th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Our last day in Farmers Cay was spent dinghy exploring and lobster hunting. The hunting party was unsuccessful in finding lobster but we did find a huge starfish and lots of sand dollars.

Matt just up from checking a coral head for dinner

An early Wednesday morning had us heading for George Town with most of the time spent motoring into light headwinds. The fishing line was out but again the sea would not give up her bounty.

Arriving in Elizabeth Harbour, George Town, the landscape was dotted with hundreds of masts gently swaying with the ocean swell. The sheer volume of boats and radio traffic was a sure sign that we had arrived.

Our welcome sign from the dinghy dock

George Town is a fabled place for cruisers; a stop for all on the route south and in fact, the final stop for many. It offers great provisioning, free water, lots of marine services, restaurants, an airport and the chance to gather with hundreds of fellow cruisers. With all these amenities comes a different pace from what we’ve experienced while cruising. With different events and activities planned all-day, every day, and over 250 boats in the harbor, GT lives up to its nickname of “summer camp for cruisers.”

Kaleo pulled into the harbor just in time for the 31st Annual Cruising Regatta, a two-week long series of boat races, beach bashes, creative competitions like the Dinghy Poker Run (aka: crisscrossing-harbor-dinghy-pub-crawl) and the infamous Coconut Challenge (more to come on this as we compete), as well as volleyball-, golf-, Bocce Ball-, Ultra Trivial Pursuit- and Texas Hold ‘Em-tournaments. There’s even Tug of War on the beach, a Dance Party with Rockin’ Ron, and a Variety Show (I immediately think “Dirty Dancing” here). In a nut shell, it’s action-packed Adults’ Field Day. Every day. With enough events packed in to make our land-life schedules look downright geriatric.

Our arrival into GT, along with “Storyville” and “Anchor Management” meant the entire “Texas Navy” had been reunited. Just in the few days leading up to the kick-off of the Regatta, we’ve already …

Enjoyed a dinner out with Steve at the Chat N’ Chill on Volleyball Beach for our first night in town. Two full plates of ribs, slaw and fries satiated our need to not dirty our own dishes and Matt’s red meat cravings. After dusk, Rusty projected “Pirates of the Caribbean” on his sail near the beach where we, and many other cruisers, enjoyed the open-air movie.
Explored the “town” part of George Town on Thursday. After walking around a bit, we stepped into the Exuma Market and were giddy at the sight of so much fresh produce and natural foods. Exuma Market is a fully-stocked grocery store that clearly caters to the cruising crowd with its wide-ranging selections and ideal location directly next to the dinghy dock. After a full cart of shopping, we loaded up the dinghy with groceries and headed back to enjoy the bounty. We’re most excited about finding organic spinach and other brightly-colored veggies, all-natural tortilla chips and organic salsas, ground turkey, flat breads, Tika Masala and Pad Thai sauces, and even some high fructose-free cereal.

“Almost” as beautiful to us as the beaches we live on

Met up with Mike and Rebecca of “Zero to Cruising“, fellow cruisers and bloggers who we’ve kept in touch with as both boats prepared and journeyed south. They’ve been in GT for a little while so they generous shared the scoop on where to be for the beach parties each evening as well as where to find whatever we may need during our stay.
Celebrated the return of Linda and arrival of her daughter, Erin, aboard “SYL” on Friday afternoon. We joined Rusty in picking them up from town after their flight arrived. Seeing Linda was like being reunited with a long-lost friend and we were delighted to finally meet Erin. The evening festivities started with mild intensions on Storyville, then quickly kicked into high-gear as the Navy migrated to “SYL”, then to “Guiding Light”, then back to “Storyville” for what turned into the start of “24-Hours-of-Steve” in honor of his upcoming birthday. Though it wasn’t until Sunday, the celebration of all-things-Steve started on Friday night with some entertaining choreography (“The George Town Stance” and “The Bosun Chair Bop”) by the captain of “Kaleo” to the beat of “I’m on a Boat,” of course while wearing our flippy-floppies and swim trunks.
Took it easy on Saturday morning before heading over to Monument Beach for afternoon yoga and retired early with a movie at home.
Attended Beach Church on Sunday morning under the shade trees with cooling sand between our toes. A fellow cruiser gave a nice “sermonette” on opening our eyes and hearts to people we might not normally interact with, much as Jesus did with the tax collector in Luke 19:9. Beach Church is an official church with a statement of faith, pastor and volunteer choir, in which Rusty from “SYL” shares his talented voice. Though the music and style made us thankful for our more contemporary Fellowship Church, it was a blessing to have corporate worship with other Christian cruisers in such a relaxed tropical enviroment.

Heading to Beach Church

Stretched our bodies and our definition of a beautiful yoga studio when Erin (a certified yoga instructor in the States) taught yoga at the Kevalli House. The class was held under private pavilion overlooking the glorious Exuma Sound, with palm trees swaying and ocean waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Christie and Erin concentrating on a balance pose

Erin’s Kevalli House yoga class

Celebrated Steve’s birthday with a Tex-Mex fiesta potluck aboard “SYL” on Sunday evening. Linda made taco soup, Deana prepared chicken enchiladas with homemade tortillas and sopapilla cheesecake, Mili from “Morning Glory” whipped up corn salsa salad, and “Kaleo” cooked up some turkey tacos. Everyone left stuffed and thankful that Steve gave us a reason to get together.

Tomorrow kicks off the Cruising Regatta with Registration Day and we have plans to team up with the Navy to enter a few events. More to come as the events unfold.

N 23° 31.19 / W 75° 45.53

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More Little Farmers Cay

Monday, February 21st, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Sunday dawned with brisk winds, and without CP (no weather reports from him on Sundays), the morning was spent waking up late (8:00) and enjoying a leisurely breakfast. Around lunch, the guys dinghyied down to Cave Rock Cay to get diesel ($5/gal) and gasoline ($5.50/gal), filling everyone’s jerry jugs. After their return and a nap, we motored our dinghy over to the nearby beach for a hike to the Exuma Sound side of the island. Guided by seasoned Farmers Cay cruisers on s/v Solitare, we hiked over sharp volcanic rock and through thickets of briars and mangroves to the expanse of the Sound.

Exploring the Exuma Sound side of Little Farmers Cay

Everyone was on a quest for sea glass, broken pieces of glass that have been polished smooth by the oceans ever constant waves. Not only did we find green, clear, and blue (rare) pieces but also some beautiful shells and fan coral. The highlight of the hunt was finding a “hamburger bean” (with help from the eagle eyes aboard “Solitare”). The “bean” is from a tree that grows on the Amazon river which drops it’s seeds into the river. They float out across the ocean, “bounce” off the coast of Africa, then ride ocean currents up to the Bahamian and Caribbean islands to be found by cruisers like us. The bean can be polished with fine grit sandpaper to create unique jewelry. We also found two “Columbus” beans, a seed from a similar tree carrying the legend that Columbus always sailed with one in his pocket.

A view well worth the hike

Back on Kaleo, we made tacos with homemade tortillas for dinner. While Matt focused on rolling out wheat flour tortillas with a wine bottle as our rolling pin, I got to Skype with one of my dearest friends, Crystal, and with my parents and with Nana who was over at their house for dinner. We even took the laptop out into the cockpit for them to enjoy the sun setting over the island. Turns out, we may need an alternate recipe as the tortillas left something to be desired. They were about as thick as pancakes but they still tasted like tortillas and we figure that’s pretty good for our first attempt. After cleaning up the galley, we wrapped up the night with more family face time (thanks Skype!) with my godmother, Aunt Cherie and Uncle Ruel as well as Matt’s brother, Jeff, and our sister-in-law Mel.

Catching up with mom and Nana. (Thanks for the just-outta-the-shower pic mom.)

It’s Monday afternoon now and we’ve just wrapped up a breakfast and internet party aboard “Kaleo”. The crews of “Storyville”, “Anchor Management”, and “Pipe Muh Bligh” ventured over to catch up on all things digital as we set up a shared internet network with the free WiFi we were able to access with our booster from the yacht club. As of now, we have loose plans to go lobster hunting with Steve and for a hike later this afternoon and, assuming the weather shapes up as forecast, we’ll head toward George Town on Wednesday.

We’re looking forward to reuniting the the rest of the Navy as well as meeting new cruisers and local while there.

Category: "Texas Navy", Bahamas, Boat Life, Cruising, Friends, Little Farmers Cay One Comment

Little Farmers Cay

Saturday, February 19th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Morning came on Friday as scheduled and we pulled up our anchor from Castle Beach and pointed the bow toward Little Farmers Cay.

Sailing south from Black Point to Little Farmers Cay

Our main pulling us through the clear blue water

Moments out of the anchorage we had the sails hoisted and with the brisk 20 knot wind Kaleo was running up to 7 knots under jib and main alone. The wind picked up a little so we doused the jib and ran about 6.5 knots down to the turn into Farmers Cay entrance. We motored slowly knowing it was a tricky entrance and on our first pass in, went south of the channel to stick our keel in the sand. Thankfully we easily motored off the sand bar and into much deeper water.

We dropped the hook near “SYL” and “Guiding Light” just as dark rain clouds developed on the horizon. It didn’t take long for them to break open and drench anything on deck but we were tucked securely below. An hour later, the tide went out and our keel was slightly bumping the sand below and with an even lower tide coming at 3:00 a.m. we had to move the boat. Shane on “GL” and Ted from “Morning Glory” came over to help Matt re-anchor the boat in a deeper spot near the yacht club, which allowed me to stay out of the rain – thanks guys!

Though we had plans to go to Oven Rock Cave, the rain convinced us that tomorrow may be a better day to check it out. So for pretty much the rest of the day, we took full advantage of the free Internet on the boat to Skype, email, and blog.

Saturday, all of the Navy awoke early to listen to Chris Parker and decided about making the run to George Town. The conditions would allow for a spirited move today or we’d have to wait until Tuesday when things are forecast to settle down. In the end “SYL”, “GL” and “MG” decided to make the run but we elected not to as the conditions, while sailable, would have been quite rolly for us. Though we’ll see everyone again in a few days, it was hard to see them go. Everyone brings a wonderfully unique personality to the Navy and it will be different without them for a while.

It was sunny but windy as we dinghyied into Farmers Cay to walk around. A small but quaint community, the little island offers most the things a cruiser needs except fuel and propane. After watching a local named Hall shell conch near the town dock, we stopped into the Lil Harbour Convenience Store and talked with the owner, Tasha. She was in the middle of eating her papaya breakfast and graciously shared some with all of us. She later recruited Matt and Troy to help her fetch a few more ripe papaya from the tree out back. We also tried another fruit she sliced up on the spot that’s a bit like a mild pomegranate though less sweet. She insisted that I try the blood-red fruit from her fingers as it was said to be good for infertility and protects against cancer. Thanks Tasha ;o).

Catching fresh papaya

She even hand wrote a few local recipes that she said we should try aboard our boats. After our fill of fruit and shopping at her store, the group walked up to the Ocean Cabin Restaurant and Bar. A Little Farmers Cay landmark, it’s been progressively added on to over the past 20 years with the help of passing cruisers. The interior rafters dripped boat signs and burgees from all those who lent a hand. Matt helped the proprietor with his website for a bit while we learned more about the history of the island.

The Ocean Cabin

The view of the harbor from the Ocean Cabin

Later in the afternoon Matt and the crew dinghyied up to Oven Rock Cave to go exploring while I took the opportunity to Skype with friends and family. Upon his return, Matt was convinced the the cave was once a pirate’s treasure lair. The entrance was an unassuming but large horizontal crack in a rock wall behind a thicket of mangroves. But upon stepping into the cave, it immediately dropped steeply into the Earth’s belly. At the deepest point was a large pool of water that everyone went swimming in and within the pool were four or five underwater channels that are explorable only with scuba gear.

The beach near Oven Rock

Matt returned to the boat on Steve’s dinghy with ours in tow. Turns out that Matt had just forgot to add oil to the gasoline which would have cause the motor damage had he continued to run it. Thanks Steve for saving us from a potentially ruining our dinghy motor. Have we mentioned that we love cruising with trusted and generous friends?!

With town already covered and sunset nearing, we elected to stay onboard for the evening despite a tempting invite to dinghy up to “Crow’s Nest” for a visit. It was a bit too far for our petite dinghy to travel without getting soaked so we made plans to anchor near them tomorrow.

N 23° 57.79 / W 76° 19.20

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Regatta Point Party

Thursday, February 17th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

We stretched into the day with morning yoga again at Regatta Point. Amy coached us through a challenging and balancing flow of vinyasas, even adding in an inversion head stand that got our blood going for the day.

Christie and Amy enjoying the view

The yoga crewed walked down the one road that winds through town past houses with locals weaving out front, past the All-Age School with its empty basketball court out nearest the street and into Lorraine’s for our daily visit with her and other cruisers stopping in to lunch and catch up on their digital lives. It was a special treat as Raven and Sharniece, from Kids’ Church, stopped in on their school lunch break for a snack. Their eyes lit up when I darted out of the computer room for big hugs and my heart overflowed for having seen them once more before leaving the Settlement.

At lunch this court fills up with all the school kids racing home for their afternoon meal

Christie and two of the girls from her Kids’ Church group

During yoga, Amy and I had the idea to have a full moon party (any excuse will do) at Regatta Point with a potluck dinner early enough to enjoy the sunset from the deck. As the day went on, we passed word along as we met up with friends throughout town and put a general announcement to the anchorages out on the VHF radio. With plans set for 4:30, it was back to the boat to start prepping. I started gathering party supplies (candles, paper goods, chairs) and cooked a few dishes to share while Matt was above deck moving Kaleo back around to Castle Beach anchorage where we would be ready to leave for Little Farmer’s Cay in the morning.

After helping him set the anchor, we changed into evening wear (out of running shorts and into khaki shorts) then dinghyied over to “Storyville”, where “SYL” was side tied. Rusty had graciously offered to ferry the entire Texas Navy, plus some new friends on “Dare Too”, in his 33′ foot dinghy (which is actually his catamaran) over to Regatta Point. Everyone jumped onboard and with the country tunes cranked up, we motored around the point, arriving on the scene as floating party straight out of Texas.

The bow of SYL nosing up to the Regatta Point dock

Matt and Rusty arriving on the scene in style

Many cruisers had already gathered as we tied up to the dock and adjusted the satellite radio station to better suit the crowd. A blend of cruisers and locals were mingling as sounds of laughter and sea stories floated out over the water. Even Lorraine and her precious little boy, Josh, were able to come and all the cruisers were delighted to feed her for a change.

Cruisers enjoying the company

Josh enjoying the attention (and food) from Christie

Upon setting down our dishes, our eyes connected with our stomachs over the Thanksgiving-size spread of offerings brought for the party. A range of chips and salsas, crispy crab cakes, colorful Hawaiian piaia, chilled chicken salad, warm rice pilaf, fresh spring rolls, bright veggie pizza slices, classic Mac & Cheese, zesty lemon bars, and on and on. Their flavors mingling together in the air accenting the ever-present fragrance of the ocean.

Talking with Pam of “Zephia”

As sunset approached, Rusty was found hoisting his main sail and setting up the projector on “SYL”. The crowd gathered on the deck of Regatta Point to take in the majestic sunset and search for the ever-elusive green flash. Then, just after the sun dipped below the horizon, “SYL” turned into a first-class, floating drive-in theater as “Captain Ron” (a cruiser classic) lit up the main sail. Quotable lines like “if it’s gonna happen, it’s gonna happen out there boss” and “Naturals! Everyoneaya, Naturals!” filled the warm night air.

The blowing of the conch shell horn to signify sunset

“Captain Ron” lit up the sail of the floating drive-in /catamaran “SYL”

As the credits rolled and we said goodnight to new friends, the Navy boarded “SYL” to return to our anchorage on the other side of Black Point. The party continued for some time into the night as we side-tied “SYL” to “Storyville” and talked of our time spent in this settlement that we’d grown to love and with warm, yet heavy hearts, made plans to sail to Little Farmers Cay the next day.

We can’t say enough about Black Point Settlement. It is an absolute gem! It has great, protective anchorages, a true authentic Bahamian community, and it’s home to the best Cracked Conch (thanks Lorraine!) and Coconut Bread (thanks Lorraine’s mamma). The community is filled with some amazing kids that have huge hearts for God and a thankful outlook on life. The most attractive thing about the settlement for us is the people – warm, outgoing, inviting and generous of their time and talents to cruisers.

Category: "Texas Navy", Bahamas, Black Point Settlement, Cruising, Friends One Comment

Yoga and Kids’ Church

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

With plans to move Kaleo around to the anchorage closest to town, we got moving early right after Chris Parker’s weather report at 6:30. The day was framed around several trips into town so we wanted “home” to be closer for easier dinghy runs.

After setting the hook in the main anchorage, we jumped in the dinghy and zoomed over to Regatta Point for a 10 o’clock yoga session. Regatta Point is a dock and set of buildings on the south side of town that serves as the headquarters for the annual Black Point Sailing Regatta. But the other 51 weeks of the year it sits virtually unused. The main building has a large, multi-colored deck jutting out over the dazzling turquoise water which made for a serene morning yoga studio. Amy coached us through some poses like “Crow“, where you crouch with your knees pressed against your elbows, raising your lower body up while balancing on slightly bent arms, supporting your entire weight for as long as possible. Everyone was successful but agreed we’d all be sore from it.

After yoga, we spent time chatting with Amy and Dave of “Crow’s Nest”. Hailing from Colorado and Connecticut, they are a fun young couple who are out here for some of the same reasons we are. They remind us of fun, energetic Austin or Seattle-type people who are at peace with enjoying the world on a relaxed schedule, focusing on experiences, not stuff. We hope to spend more time with them as we continue exploring the islands.

Lorraine was still out of conch today and the Internet connection was dismally slow, so the whole Navy gave DeShmon’s (the other restaurant in town) a try. They had pizza on the menu and we split an italian sausage and cheese with Shane while browsing the net. The group made tentative plans for moving the fleet down to the next island of Farmer’s Cay soon.

On the way back to the boat we stopped by the market to see what fresh produce the mail boat might have brought in. The fresh selection wasn’t huge but we picked up a head of lettuce ($3), a plantain ($1) and eggs ($3). Last night we’d promised to bring some Fellowship Church Kids’ Curriculum DVD’s to Miss Sharon, a missionary at the local church. And while dropping those off, we discovered that kids’ church, called TeamKIDS,would be that evening and they would welcome any help. We planned to return ready to hang with the kids and help out.

After putting away the groceries we snuck in a nap, cleaned up the boat a bit and then had dinner before heading back into town for TeamKIDS. A few rain clouds dotted the horizon as we were leaving but they didn’t seem threatening enough to justify shutting all the hatches, (which we would later regret as Matt had to run back to the boat when the sky opened up and poured down). While walking up the dock we ran into Raymond, whom we’d met in church on Sunday, and he insisted on giving us ride to the church. We hopped aboard his golf cart and were chauffeured to the front door of the church education building while he explained a little history of the island. It’s just another example of how giving and gracious the Bahamian people are in allowing us to weave into their community.

Matt in the Church Education Centre with rain clouds forming

The kids’ church classroom

Christie and the kiddos playing “Candy Land”

About three dozen kiddos showed up early with enthusiasm and huge hearts for God for TeamKIDS. From Pre-K to 5th grade, the room was quickly filled with giggling and high-energy as games like “Candy Land” and “Connect Four” kept them entertained until it was time to start. First up, Miss Sharon reviewed the lessons they had gone through in previous weeks and then began with the evening’s lesson on “choosing the right friends.” Sampson was the example story and when she asked who knew anything about Sampson, almost every hand shot up. But these kids knew so much more than the simple fact of Sampson being the strongest man in the world. With answers about his marriage to a Philistine, adding that he shouldn’t have been friends with her, and not being able to eat dead animals, these kids knew their bible stories. It certainly helps that they are given Biblical knowledge as a class subject in grade-school.

Lesson Worksheet for the younger kids

Using a modern-looking felt board and engaging worksheets, Miss Sharon taught us all about how friends can be an influence on you and what to look for in a good friend. As the lesson ended, the kids were invited to join in together for “popcorn prayer” where everyone closes their eyes, folds their hands and prays about something out loud when they feel led. We were expecting crickets. Maybe a kid or two would speak out in the silence, but it was a heart-warming surprise when they were practically talking over each other, popping prayers throughout the classroom with the sweetest sincerity. Thanking God for “food on their tables, clothes on their back and shoes on their feet”, for “parents and teachers”, for “missionaries in far off lands” and for “protection”. We had lumps in our throats when one young boy said “God, thank you for Meez Chrestie and Mr. Mott, that they came here to us tonight” and another little girl thanked Him for “our special guests.” My entire self smiled and it was all I could do to not burst into happy-tears hearing their voices raised in such powerful prayer.

Refreshments of Animal Crackers and chilled Capri Suns were a treat for the kiddos as well as ourselves and we left feeling overjoyed and blessed at the opportunity to have been part of TeamKIDS for the night.

Category: "Texas Navy", Bahamas, Black Point Settlement, Boat Life, Cruising, Friends 2 Comments

Becoming Part of the BP Community

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Monday brought strong winds which would make for wet dinghy rides and unpleasant sailing so we spent the morning hanging out on the boat. Just before lunch the winds let up so we grabbed the opportunity for a drier dinghy ride and headed into the beach, then made the 2-mile walk into town. The first stop was Lorraine’s for, you guessed it, Internet and her famous cracked conch. She was out of conch as no one had been out fishing due to the choppy sea state and heavy winds so we opted for her take on wings and fries. Another reinforcement that she’s the best chef in town. We stopped by Adderley’s small market store to see if they may have any fresh produce but the mail boat hadn’t yet come this week so headed back to our anchorage to see what the rest of the Navy was up to.

The 2 mile walk (each way) into town from our anchorage on the south side of BP

From our experience, every anchorage has its trade-offs, but Castle Beach has offered some of the best protection we’ve had yet. It’s a crescent-shaped cove with good water depths, two big beaches and protection from heavy wind and waves in every direction except from the west. What we trade for calm nights at anchor and an uncrowded anchorage is a long walk into town and no Internet on the boat. But we really like the anchorage and it makes the 20+ knot winds seem like no big deal.

That evening, Shane hosted everyone in the anchorage for sundowners and snacks aboard his Lagoon 410. We had the chance to finally meet Ted and Mili, of “Morning Glory”, who we’d been emailing with for a few months. They had sailed into the anchorage a few hours earlier and came to Shane’s boat for the gathering. It was a delight to spend some time getting to know them in person and we’re looking forward to more of it. Their catamaran is the same kind as SYL, a Seawind 1000, so another common bond was formed and we’re sure there will be a race or two between them. No sailor can pass up racing against the same type of boat because it has the tendency to highlight your sailing skills.

We never tire of these evenings in the backyard

The VHF crackled to life early Tuesday morning with an open invite to yoga led by Amy, a fellow cruiser aboard Crow’s Nest. The venue of choice for the morning’s session was outside the laundromat, as the owner, a local named Ida, wanted to join. Ida was in the middle of giving haircuts (yes, the laundromat doubles as a hair salon) so we all perused Mary’s garage sale that was set up out front while waiting for the trims finish up. Mary is an American that has lived in Black Point for the last 10 years but is now planning a move to Hawaii to be closer to her son. Only wanting to take what will fit in her luggage, she is selling the rest and her garage sale pops up at various locations throughout town during the week.

Ida cutting a cruiser’s hair in front of her laundromat

Miss Mary and her garage sale

The sun shined brightly as half a dozen cruisers and three locals stretched out upon beach towels and yoga mats ready to follow Amy’s form. An hour later we were all feeling a little more inner peace and a little muscle burn too. Lorraine’s was next for some Internet but she was still out of conch so we didn’t stay long. We jumped in the dinghy with Deana, who’d given us a ride in, to zip back towards Castle Beach.

Christie warming up on the sidewalk/yoga studio

Lunch and naps aboard filled the early afternoon before we walked back into town to help tutor some local children at the church. A sign was posted at Ida’s laundromat inviting cruisers help tutor school children and with our hearts set on giving back to this community that’s given so much to us, we eagerly signed up the crew of “Kaleo” to help.

Gregory and Sharniece, both about 6 years old, came by the church’s educational center after school to work on reading. It quickly became apparent that they were both solid readers and just needed to practice a little pronunciation and stringing words into more fluid sentences with someone. We spent about a couple hours working on sounding out some words and reading books like,”Miss Spider’s New Car” and “The Pig Did A Jig”. We quickly adapted our Texan “cats” and “bats” to Bahamian “cots” and “bots” to help reinforce their British-influenced English. We had a great time with the kiddos and are looking forward to helping out again while we’re here.

Dinghying back to the boat, we stopped by SYL to say goodbye to Linda, who was flying back to Houston in the morning. She is a key witness in a criminal case that has been going on for a few years and the district attorney called out of the blue this week to say it was time to go court. Another bit of dinghying took us to “Pipe Muh Bligh” where the rest of the crew was cooking up their catch from the day’s fishing trip. Lobster and Lionfish were on the menu and it smelled delicious. They were gracious enough to invite us to stay and join the feast but we just didn’t feel right given all the work they had put into snagging their catch while we were in town with the kiddos. So, Matt cooked us up some turkey burgers back on Kaleo and we made it an early evening. Another fine day in earthly paradise.

Category: "Texas Navy", Bahamas, Black Point Settlement, Boat Life, Cruising, Friends 3 Comments

Black Point Settlement

Monday, February 14th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

It was early to rise on Monday morning to tuck into the cove near “Castle Beach”, just two miles south of Black Point Settlement, for the approaching weekend’s moderate blow. As we motored around the point, it became quickly apparent how the beach earned its nickname as there is a picturesque, yet somewhat out of place, white castle standing proud upon the bluff overlooking the anchorage. Though not as large as King Arthur’s, it’s a square castle with four turrets rounding each corner, arched windows and a grand staircase. Only a wind generator spinning like an airplane propeller proves it’s of the modern age.

Sea Yawl Later and Storyville headed to the protected anchorage

The castle on the bluff

While headed toward the anchorage, Christie got creative in the galley and made french toast with the last of our coconut bread. Partnered with eggs, bacon and Mandarin oranges, it was a meal that easily competed for one our the best breakfasts yet. We did the dishes, scouted a good spot for the boat then dropped the anchor. Quickly, the bow jerked the chain taunt giving us the reassuring feeling of our hook deeply wedged beneath the sand on the sea floor. We cleaned up the boat then jumped in the dinghy to head over toward some lobster hunting action. Storyville and Anchor Management were over near the rock cliffs looking for dinner and we wanted to check their luck. Deana and Steve were dipping below the surface with Hawaiian Slings in hand looking for an unsuspecting lobster or fish. A few poked out from beneath a rock ledge and the hunt was on! It took a few shots but Deana quickly speared her first lobster which they would enjoy with warm butter and as a topping on their pizza later.

Steve and Deana hunting for lobster

Dinghying away from the hunting grounds, we stopped at yet another boat in the cove hailing from Houston; Randy, aboard “Mariah”, a single-hander that has been cruising the Bahamas and east coast for the past 20 years. We picked up a little local knowledge about the best road into town then jetted over to SYL to visit with Rusty and Linda as the sun set. We enjoyed their company as we all watched the front blowing in. We could see the rain line and dark clouds marching towards our bobbing boats and at the last minute we left SYL to return to Kaleo still dry. The wind picked up to about 20-23 knots and we settled in for a night aboard. “Ondine” was the movie for the evening and it does not make our recommendation list. Okay at best, we decided to delete it from our hard drive with no intentions of even sharing it.

Regardless of the movie review, we enjoyed being snuggled up onboard while the wind howled outside and Kaleo, chained to the sea floor, bobbed ever so slightly.

On Sunday, the same conditions greeted us but with plans to go to church in Black Point, we couldn’t let a little wind and dinghy sea spray stop us. After a hearty breakfast and dressing in our Sunday best (rare these days), the Navy piled into their respective dinghies and met on the beach. Shane arranged a ride for us into town and the island missionary, Charles, picked us up in his truck. It saved us a couple of miles walk and we all got to mark it as our first time going to church in the back of a pick-up. And certainly a first for sitting in service with sandy feet.

The Bahamian Holy Bible Mission Church is a quaint, sea-foam green building in front of the biggest beach on Black Point. Traditionally set up inside, it was really nice to go to church and even nicer going with the entire group of cruising friends. The Navy was in for a surprise as Shane, of Guiding Light, was enlisted to give the message for the day. Shane had been to the church a few weeks earlier and had really enjoyed his time there. The pastor, who also happens to double as the town’s police chief, asked if Shane wouldn’t mind giving a message and he gladly accepted. He delivered a powerful message based on the insightful personal relationship book, “The Five Love Languages” and how God shows his love to all of us via the five different ways. Perfectly timed for a Valentine’s Day message of expressing love. By the way if you haven’t read the book, we highly recommended it. Not just for romantic relationships, but to help you understand how all relationships (parent/child, friends, co-workers) in your life express love and the best ways to reciprocate it.

The Texas Navy heading to church

After service let out we all walked down to Lorraine’s for a leisurely Sunday lunch of cracked conch. Have we mentioned this is the most amazing conch to be had?! Delicate, tender, buttery and lightly fried with a side of french fries, it made for the best Sunday meal we’ve had in a long time. Christie and Linda stayed at Lorraine’s to do some Internet items while the rest of the crew walked to a blow hole further down the island. It was a powerful hole with mist and water shooting upward with every crashing wave but the scene was ruined by trash scattered everywhere. Either the blow hole was also the town dump or it happened to be the spot where all the trash from the ocean collected. Regardless it took something away from the otherwise awe-inspiring scene.

Lorraine’s AMAZINGLY DELICIOUS Cracked Conch

On the ride back to the anchorage we stopped to wait for a local guy to back his boat into a driveway. Just as we stopped, the boat came unhitched from the truck and began rolling down the road. Luckily it veered off and into a ditch before hitting Charles’ truck. All the guys jumped out of the truck and helped the local guy get the boat hitched back up and out of the ditch.

Upon returning to our own boats, all the guys lent a hand across the Navy with various boat projects. Shane had a watermaker project to work on, Rusty had a rudder fix to make, Steve a wind generator issue to diagnose. Matt returned home after dark just in time for us to enjoy some dinner and reflect on a really nice day.

N 24° 04.43 / W 76° 23.27

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Introducing the “Texas Navy”

Sunday, February 13th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Leave it to a bunch of Texans to find each other amongst remote Bahamian islands. A true Texas flotilla has formed with the five vessels Matt and Christie of Kaleo, Steve aboard Anchor Management, Troy and Deana of Storyville, Rusty and Linda on Sea Yawl Later, and Shane aboard Guiding Light.

Storyville and Anchor Management sailing the banks

Guiding Light and Sea Yawl Later rafted up in Staniel Cay

The “Texas Navy” on our way to church service in Black Point

Rusty,the quintessential Texan – warm, outgoing with can-do optimism and a true southern gentleman, first coined the nickname of our group all hailing from near Houston which includes two catamarans, a racer/cruiser, a full-keeled cutter and a ketch.

Beyond our Texas origins, the group seems to share a similar cruising style with each crew member bringing a unique and enjoyable personality, and has formed a strong bond out here. While each crew is still responsible for their own boat, we often confer on destinations, daily activities and swap anchorage and weather info. Days are spent exploring new areas, sharing meals, games and movies together. We’ve warmed to the name so much that when someone wants to hail everyone in the group, they come on the VHF radio with “Texas Navy, Texas Navy, switch to channel 17.” We all switch over and make plans but since VHF is an open frequency (meaning anyone with a radio can listen in), our nickname has become known among the local cruising community. When you introduce yourself to another cruiser around here and mention you’re from Texas, often the first thing they ask is “are you part of the Texas Navy?” And while we’re having a ton of fun together, we’re not an exclusive, members-only club and look forward to meeting others – both cruisers and locals – along our journeys.

As each boat’s cruising plans progress, we may go our own course in time but for now are enjoying each day we’re blessed to spend together.

Category: "Texas Navy", Bahamas, Boat Life, Cruising, Friends 2 Comments

Cruising With The Texas Crew

Friday, February 11th, 2011 / Christie & Matt

Wednesday awoke with warm sunshine and a brisk cooling breeze. The day began mid-morning as we jumped aboard SYL (literally jumped as they pulled up right next to Kaleo) for a day sail to Black Point Settlement, about 5 miles away. Shane and Matt helped Rusty hoist and set the sails as he trimmed them for optimal speeds toward our nearby destination. Soon enough the engines were shut down and SYL picked up speed for a beautiful 7 knot run. Only the whoosh of the wind and the gurgle of the water foaming past the hulls touched our ears.

Gliding in, we tied up at the town dock for a short walk into the settlement. As we moseyed down the single-lane paved road it was evident that Black Point is a true out-island “non-touristy” Bahamian community. Brightly colored buildings lined the street with an occasional small car or golf cart parked at their fronts while women weave native straw work along the streets in front of their homes.

Our destination was Lorraine’s Cafe where an order of fresh baked coconut bread awaited us. Baked by Lorraine’s mother and holding legendary status among cruisers who sail through, the bread is handmade daily and orders have to be placed every morning for your choice of coconut, white, wheat, and cinnamon raisin. We split a loaf of coconut with Storyville (it’s preservative-free so it has to be eaten within a few days) and each had a slice from the still warm loaf right then. The coconuty-carb treat lived up to its reputation and beyond. In fact we already fear the day when we long for Lorraine’s bread when we’re back in the states.

Lorraine’s is a fine spot for lunch and Internet access

The other attraction to Lorraine’s is complimentary WiFi (a small donation is encouraged) while dining on a choice of traditional Bahamian dishes (cracked conch) and classic American choices (cheeseburger). We ordered conch fritters with a side of Internet, giving us time to update the blog, check emails, and other miscellaneous web tasks. Matt spent part of the time trying to fix her second wireless router but without any success. After lunch we stopped by the market to check out the selection but after looking it over, decided to wait for the mailboat to come into Staniel the next day for fresh produce.

Then it was back aboard SYL for the return sail to the Staniel Cay anchorage where we’d greet Steve upon his return “home”. A big thank you to our friend aboard Anchor Management for picking us up some state-side luxuries during his quick trip to visit a friend in Ft. Lauderdale.

Thursday began with helping Anchor Management transition out of the Yacht Club dock where it had been tied while Steve was away out to the anchorage to join the rest of the gang. Matt and Troy jumped on to help him squeeze between a large sport fishing boat and a skinny fairway. They got away from the docks and soon enough Anchor Management was at anchor with the rest of us. Then it was back on board SYL, which has become the gathering place of late, to sail over to Big Majors.

One fun part of going on SYL is Rusty’s dedication to sailing. While most people would have just turned on the motor for the 3-mile hop, we hoisted sails to make a few short tacks out and then back toward the beach. But this wasn’t your average Bahamian beach. It’s home to pigs. And not just any pigs, but SWIMMING pigs. Upon seeing a boat or dinghy coming to the beach they eagerly run into the water and start pig-paddling their way toward you. They’re looking for food and expect to be fed as they circle your boat (or you, if you’re in the water) with mouths open grunting in delight with every morsel you toss them. Shane jumped in the water to get a few pictures while we distracted the pigs with Saltine Crackers.

When pigs swim

After the pigs had their fill, SYL backed away from the beach and we returned to the anchorage just in time for a high tide tuck into Thunderball Grotto. Steve hadn’t seen it yet so we all headed over to snorkel around. The current was fairly swift making the entrance a bit tricky as you had to guide your head in between two rocks about 15 inches apart. Ducking under a last rock, we swam into the grotto cave and were swirled around through the eddies created by the current. There wasn’t nearly as many fish and it was hard work swimming to keep away from the cave walls so we bailed out after about 10 minutes.

An underwater entrance to the grotto

We returned to the boats in Staniel Cay and everyone retired early with plans for an mid-morning move down to Black Point Settlement. That evening Shane delivered freshly baked chocolate chip cookies to each boat in the Navy and as we had just baked a home made pizza, we invited him on board for dinner. That worked out well because we got to have cookies before and after dinner.

Being low on water and close by a marina, we decided to dock at the yacht club to fill up Friday morning. Shane volunteered to lend a hand while docking so we picked him up on the way out of the anchorage. A strong current made pulling in a little tense but everything went smoothly and soon tanks were topped off and we were making our way out of Staniel Cay toward Black Point.

We motor-sailed as far as possible before turning into the wind for the last 3 miles (of 7) toward the Black Point Anchorage. We picked a spot near the Rockside Laundromat dinghy dock to make for a convenient trip into what is said to be the best laundromat along the Exuma chain of islands. Upon walking in, rumor was confirmed as there were plenty off brand new machines in a clean and well organized building. The cost is $3.50 per wash and another $3.50 per dryer and well worth it for five loads of fresh, clean clothes, sheets and towels.

Rockside Laundromat is the best in the Bahamas

The group all ended up at Lorraine’s (right next to the laundromat) for lunch and more Internet time. After folding what was dry and stringing some line-dry items over every available spot in the cabin of Kaleo, we headed over to SYL for sundowners, Linda’s 15-bean soup, a few rounds of “Catch Phrase” and the movie “Kate and Leopold.” We had another fun and relaxing evening and while dinghying back, we’re greeted with the sounds of “This is how we do it” drifting over the water from the nearby Bahamian bar. The water was glass (the calm before tomorrow’s storm) and we could see the waves in the sand on the sea floor lit by the moonlight.