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Navigating New Orleans

The day started early as we untied from our dock in Lafitte and made our way back through the Barataria Waterway to rejoin the ICW on our way to New Orleans. We were met with a morning storm passing in the distance along a spectacular sunrise.

As we neared the Port of New Orleans, we could hear and feel a consistent thundering overhead that soon revealed themselves as circling fighter jets. Must have been some training exercise or important activity in the area because we also saw gunships (heavily armed helicopters).

Passing storm and rising sun along the Barataria Waterway

Before getting into the Mississippi River and the city of New Orleans, a series of nautical obstacles must be overcome to be granted access.

First up, the Harvey Lock.

Last night we had thoroughly read up on all the steps and protocol and were feeling confident as we approached. While we were hoping to be the only vessel in the lock (or at least one of a couple), we found ourselves being instructed to jam in alongside a barge and three tugs, on our port side. Our port side?! We were prepared to tie up on our starboard side as all the guidebooks instructed.

After hurriedly switching the bumpers to the other side, Matt slowly maneuvered Kaleo inside the lock and close to the wall where we attached a line to a built-in cleat. After specific instructions to watch for prop wash from the tugs (which could push Kaleo quickly into the wall), we were given our exit order and before we knew it, the water had risen the two feet needed to meet with the river.

The doors on the other end of the locks opened and there it was, the mighty Mississippi River!

Inside the Harvey Lock

Once exiting the Harvey Lock, we had the sight of New Orleans’ skyline in our view. We’ve gone under many bridges so far, but going under the Crescent City Connection was impressive with a clearance of 170 feet.

We passed under the bridge and cruised alongside The Riverwalk, downtown New Orleans, Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral, the river boats along the bank, and the French Quarter.

Approaching the Crescent City Connection

Soon we were at the entrance to the Industrial Lock.

We tried hailing the lockmaster several times with no response as we inched closer to the lock entrance. When we heard a number of other tugs hailing the lock without reply from the lockmaster, we knew we were going nowhere fast.

After a few phone calls and two hours later, radio chatter with the lockmaster in attendance commenced. Hearing barge after barge check in, with the latest being at position 19, we were finally answered and granted a position for entering the locks. Luckily, it was position number three and after waiting for one barge to lock across to our side, we entered the Industrial Lock along with one other tug (much roomier than the Harvey Lock).

A couple lines were tossed down from a lock attendant and we secured one to the bow, one to the stern as we snuggled up to the port-side wall. It was then that we learned that the past two hours of radio silence had been caused by an impromptu union meeting of the operators.

The water in the locks dropped a foot and a half around us, the other side of the doors slowly opened and we were on our way. To a bit of anxiety as we could see a lift bridge (not lifted) less than 100 feet away. Again, the bridge operator was MIA as we requested an opening. Finally, after idling to lessen our distance her voice crackled through the VHF to ask where we were and when we needed it opened. Here and now.

This is really starting to feel like an unforgiving game of frogger out here.

Next up, the Florida Avenue Railroad Lift Bridge. Because of our delay at the previous bridge, this bridge operator let us know we had better get up here as he was lowering this bridge because a train had been waiting to cross for the past five hours. We throttled up to max speed to get through as quickly as possible. Just as we crossed under, the bridge started lowering and moments later we heard the operator announce that it had gotten stuck at 34 feet (pretty much in the middle). We were pretty grateful to have not been stuck between those past two lift bridges for the entire afternoon.

Inside the Industrial Lock

Because we have both already spent time in New Orleans, we had hoped to just pass through to an anchorage further down the ICW for the night. With the delays of the morning, exhaustion from the obstacles, and not enough daylight to reach the anchorage, we decided to stay at a marina close-by at SeaBrook Harbor Marine.

After tying up, we spend the rest of the evening stretching our legs with a great walk around the area, washing down and organizing the boat, checking in on finances via Mvelopes, making dinner and some pretty heavenly pumpkin spice bread with Cranraisins and walnuts.

Tomorrow, it’s off to Rabbit Island with plans to get to Biloxi, MS by Monday or Tuesday for a roadtrip to spend Thanksgiving with family!

N 30° 01.47/ W 90° 01.93

Our Longest Run Yet

The usual early morning wake up came, but surprisingly it hasn’t been hard to wake up at all. Maybe because we go to bed at 8:00 most nights or maybe because each day has such purpose – to get to the next spot with as much daylight left as possible. Matt went to start the motor and rhun rhun rhun, nothing. Rhun, run, run, nothing. It wanted to start but wouldn’t. After a brief moment of despair, Matt got out Nigel Calder’s Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Handbook to see what the issue might be. Though oil pressure was the most likely culprit, the book said to check that the engine was getting enough heat to start firing. A quick inspection revealed that the preheat solenoid had broken loose from the engine (meaning, it wouldn’t preheat the engine and couldn’t start). Understandably, Mr. Beeker (affectionate name for our Westerbeke engine) was a bit too cold to get up and going right away this morning. A simple replacement of a bolt and the tightening of another and Mr. Beeker growled to life.

Bundled up against the cold

It was pretty chilly as we got underway (the coldest morning yet at about 50 degrees) and as Matt said, “This morning puts the icy in ICW.”

Next up, as R2-D2 (our auto-pilot) was guiding us along, it started veering too closely to the starboard shore and before Matt could react – thump – the boat stopped. Yep, stuck in the mud. Again. Now, an all too familar occurance, we went through the usual drills of trying to motor ourselves off, but no luck. With mulitlpe barges and tugs coming down the waterway, we got on the VHF to alert them that we were grounded with hopes to avoid any further problems. After several minutes of radio chatter, two tugs agreed to help us out! One, Miss Kim, blocked traffic while the other, Saftey Spirit, dropped its barges in the middle of the canal to float along briefly and came to hook up to the bow of Kaleo. The deckhand tossed a line the thickness of a coffee can for us to connect our, in comparison, very puny line to.  Moments later, without the slighest engine rev from the tug, we were flung to freedom into the middle of the ICW and back on course.

A swift pull out of the mud

We can’t thank these two tugs enough. Their generosity and kindness made all the difference in our day. It’s folks like the captain and crew of those two tugs who make even the challenging parts of cruising more enjoyable.

With water back under the keel, Kaleo was gliding along again when we happened upon our first (moving) alligator sighting. It was hanging out in the middle of the channel then quickly swam toward shore as we drew closer. This was pretty exciting as we’ve been waiting to spot one on the move the whole trip.

Because of our delayed start, getting stuck and the 64 miles to cover, night fell on the bayou before we arrived at our destination. A first for our trip. We turned on the navigation lights, radar, and chatted with the tugs closest by. The tug Big Bay agreed to let us follow her into Morgan City if we needed to. But by God’s timing, we were passing through an area that has a vessel traffic control service (like air traffic control) that not only we checked into, but they were able to tell us the location and direction of every vessel on the water en-route to our destination. About another hour and we were safely tied up to the Morgan City Pleasure Docks, bought some fresh shrimp from a shrimper tied up next to us and enjoyed a dinner of Christie’s Étouffée.

N 29° 43.59/ W 91° 12.93

FAQ’s

Tell someone that you’re taking a substantial break from the status quo to sail about the world for awhile and you’ll inevitably be engaged in an extended game of 20 questions. For anyone that we haven’t talked with in person, here are the ones we get most often and always enjoy answering. Missed one? Let us know in the comments below.

Wait! You’re doing what?

After responses ranging from “you’re crazy” to “can I come along?”, we then re-explain that we are moving aboard our sailboat to spend time with each other in God’s creation, especially the tropical parts.

Why?

The reasons are far too numerous to list here and more details are at “Our Dream, God Willing,” but for the most part, we want to experience life at a different pace for awhile. Also, to gain perspective on how blessed we are and satisfy a curiosity to see the world differently.

Where are you going and for how long?

We’re planning to head out from Texas to Florida along the Gulf Coast and throughout the Bahamas and Caribbean. This trip will take about six months or so. You can see more details here and continually track our progress by clicking the globe in the “Keep In Touch” box on the left.

When are you setting sail?

We’re planning to toss the docklines the beginning of November. The actual day will be dependent upon the right combination of weather, tides and winds.

Do you know how to sail?

While we aren’t professional sailors, we have been sailing together for about 3 and half years. We know our boat inside and out, how to properly trim (adjust) the sails and most importantly, how to watch the weather doing our best to stay at anchor when it’s blowing too hard to sail comfortably. And we’re looking forward to learning even more about sailing while out there living it daily.

Are you sure you’re ready?

As with most big things in life, you can prepare as much as you like but you’re never quite ready. So there’s no better time than the present to really answer this question by heading out. If we’re not ready, we imagine that we’ll learn how to be pretty quickly.

What are you going to do out there?

This lifestyle will be a significant change of pace for us, but before you envision crystal clear waters and white sand beaches, know that cruising is hard work. Maintenance and care of the boat alone will take plenty of time but so will swimming in crystal clear waters and exploring white sandy beaches.

What about your jobs?

We’re taking a leave of absence. We both have excellent careers and our employers were gracious enough to leave the doors open. And if we find a different calling while out there, we’ll pursue that.

What will you do for money?

Before we were married, we lived like most people, with some debt and no significant financial plan. Regardless of going sailing or not, neither of us were content with our financial situation. So, we changed that by following the financial principles laid out in the Bible which were made easier by using Crown Mvelopes Software. The biblical principles helped us pay off all debt, empowered us to be more generous with what He has provided and save enough to pursue this dream for awhile. Read more about this part of the journey here.

What will you do with all your stuff?

Since we decided to go now, we haven’t had time to acquire much. In fact, that’s part of the point of this adventure, being liberated from stuff and free to enjoy experiences. Of what we do have, most has been sold, some given away, and the rest put in storage. For the stuff we “really need” we’ll figure out a way to bring it on board. If it doesn’t fit, we probably don’t need it anyway.

What will you do for food?

While our boat has a fridge and freezer, they are very tiny, so packing food aboard ,or provisioning as it’s called, is an important part of preparation. We ‘ll stock up in the States from places like Costco, Sam’s Club, Trader Joe’s (Christie’s all-time favorite) and buying fresh vegetables and meats along the way as needed. Surprisingly, there are many foods that don’t need to be refrigerated and can be stored for a long time. Eggs for example, if never refrigerated, can be stored for up to three months as long as they are rotated a few times a week.

How will you stay in touch?

Part of the point of this adventure is to turn down the volume on our 24/7 digital connectivity. That said, we will still have many ways to keep in contact with friends and family. Besides the normal marine communications (i.e., VHF), we have a worldphone for calls when on shore in any country and a WiFi extender to get signal up to a few miles from the source. With WiFi, we will have email, this blog and Skype. For tracking purposes we have a SPOT satellite GPS device and for safety, we have a GPS EPIRB.

What if you get lost?

Thanks to modern technology, it’s fairly hard to get completely lost. Our boat has multiple GPS receivers and redundant navigation systems to help keep us on course. More importantly, we carry good old fashioned paper charts (maps of the sea) and a compass to navigate with. In the worst case, there is always land in some direction, right?

How big is your boat and can you really live on it?

Kaleo is a 34 foot Aloha sloop with room for six to sleep, though more than four people makes it a bit uncomfortable. While the accommodations are small, we believe it’ll be an excellent exercise in learning to live with less stuff and more experiences. Bonus, we’ll have a really big back yard.

There are millions of people around the world who live in much less. Kaleo has a galley (kitchen), head (bathroom with shower), salon (living/dining room), v-berth and quarter berth (bedrooms), navigation station (home office), and a cockpit and deck (patios). Plus, the bigger boat, the bigger the expense, which means less time we get to be out cruising.

Is it safe?

The reality is that we’re more likely to be in a car wreck on the freeway than any real danger from sailing. With prudent seamanship, common sense and thorough preparation, most mistakes that lead to unsafe situations can be prevented.

What about pirates?

If we meet Jack Sparrow we’ll probably invite him onboard for dinner. All kidding aside, “pirates” are a real threat in some parts of the world, but not the parts we’re going to. Our biggest threat will be locals who might eye the outboard dinghy motor, which we’ll have to remember to lock up.

Haven’t you seen Shark Week?

Yes and it’s scary. They’re out there. And we’ll be in their neighborhood. We’ll be nice and hope they are too.

What about rogue waves?

We’ll hold our breath ;o).

What happens when you get in an argument?

We’ll be forced to make up a lot quicker since there’s nowhere for either of us to go. If it’s a bad one, Matt will ride in the dinghy while Christie lets some extra line out behind the boat.

Can I come visit?

Absolutely! We would love nothing more than to be a friendly face in a place you’ve dreamed of visiting. After you get done swabbing the decks there will be plenty of time to go ashore or sail between some tropical islands. If you’d like to come for a visit get a hold of us via the “Keep In Touch” box on the left.

Cruising Curriculum

Every time we visit Kaleo, we learn a lot. Sometimes it’s about how to best trim the sails for the fastest speed or for a more comfortable ride. Sometimes (everytime) it’s about how a planned project takes more time and money than expected. And often it’s about loving the idea of a life aboard with each new experience.

But when we are away from the boat (which is most of the time as we don’t live in the same city as our beloved vessel) the education doesn’t stop. Of course we learn a lot from books we’re reading and blogs we follow but the latest addition to our education stable have been classes from the Seven Seas University. SSU is the online education portal of the Seven Seas Cruising Association.

SSU offers a number of online courses on various cruising subjects that can be taken online in a webinar format. These classes allow an instructor to take students through a slideshow while they voice over and sometimes teach via video. We will post topline learning from each session but in the meantime here is a list of the courses we’ve taken so far:

  • Celestial Navigation
  • What you really, really need to know about yacht insurance
  • Emergency Protocols You Must Have
  • Non-Emergency Use of DIGITAL SELECTIVE CALLING (VHF DSC)
  • AIS (Automatic Identification System)
  • Island Hopping to the Caribbean
  • First Aid Afloat

Stay tuned for the highlights of what we’re learning.

Set and Share Life Goals

A big part of our dream, and any dream for that matter, is writing it down and setting steps to achieve it.

We’ve recently found a web service that helps us jot down, track our progress and share these dreams as they come so we can make room for even more. mySomeday is designed to help you achieve those goals and dreams you’ve always said you’d get to ‘Someday’. It even goes a step further by letting you share and connect with others that may have similar dreams.

Twitter response from MySomeday upon creating our MySomeday

Features:

  • Record your life goals
  • Share your goals with friends and family
  • Receive encouragement to achieve your goals
  • Similar tools: GoalBot, 43Things, GetGoaling and stickK
Some Gear That Keep Us Going

We’ve certainly started more projects than have finished lately. It seems that in the boating world parts take longer to arrive than the time it takes to do the actual project. We’re currently waiting on the delivery of items such as dorade cowls, a finished bathroom counter top & revamped companionway doors.

So while we have less completed project updates, we do have a few tools that we’ve started relying on time and time again. The first is a custom screwdriver called a Picquic.

Matt first read about this at Navagear and I (Christie) got him the Mariner for Christmas! It’s especially handy because it was custom ordered with the bits we need most (e.g., a square bit because our Canadian boat was built with square screws).

A second tool that sees a lot of use is the Power8 Workshop, basically the most common power wood working tools combined into one flexible unit. Another holiday gift (it was a good Christmas for Matt), this makes it easy for him to handle projects and fabricate parts that he would normally have to pay someone to do. A bonus for boating life is that it packs into a small case and is powered by batteries, meaning it can be used in remote anchorages or when away from a power source.

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Cruising Cards

Sailors are a social bunch. More than that, they have a sense of camaraderie and duty to look out for and support one another. People often trade boat cards like these to help keep track of others you meet along your voyages. We ordered these online free, plus about $6 in shipping from Vistaprint.

Another small step taken this week was the purchase and creation of our website, SVKaleo.com. It cost a little less than $10/yr and will house our blog, information about Kaleo, our current location, sailing resources, what to expect when coming aboard, and photo albums. But for now, it just links to our blog as we develop other content.

A Tool For The Hunt

In our search to find the ‘right’ cruising sailboat, we created these business cards to help connect us with any and all potential matches. Vistaprint is a great resource to use to make free cards like these (+ $6 shipping). We handed them out to anyone who would take them … to everyone we knew, along the marinas we’d visit, posted them on marina bulletin boards & restrooms, etc. They led to a few calls & were great for new contacts, but ultimately we found our beloved Kaleo through Carolyn at HSH Yachts in Seabrook. We highly recommend working with her in a search!

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