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We’re in Mississippi

We’ve spent the past few days motoring from New Orleans to Rabbit Island, Rabbit Island to Cat Island (no, didn’t see or hear either creature out there), Cat Island to our current tie up in Ocean Springs, MS. Three relatively easy days with great weather, other than a little fog before leaving Rabbit Island.

New Orleans to Rabbit Island

Secluded Rabbit Island anchorage

Rabbit Island to Cat Island

We were greeted this morning with a thick fog that reduced visibility to about 100 feet. That was a no-go for the first couple hours so we took advantage of the time to leisurely enjoy some breakfast and reading. By about 10:00 a.m., the fog lifted and we were on our way to our anchorage for the night at Cat Island. We were treated to some wide open waters of the Mississippi Sound and our first sights of sandy beaches (versus mud banks). A great change of scenery from the narrow channels we’ve been navigating thus far. Once at Cat Island, Christie dropped the hook and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset and moonrise in near absolute silence of the glassy Mississippi Sound.

Morning fog at Rabbit Island

Cat Island to Ocean Springs, MS

We pulled the hook up early and headed for Ocean Springs, motoring along with dolphins joining us for much of the way. The jib sail was unfurled for the last couple of miles into the harbor and Kaleo was running at 7 knots with the sail full. Dolphins again playing all around the boat. We cautiously navigated into the harbor as the depth meter told us of ground just inches below the keel. After pulling into the best looking slip we could find, the boat yard manager said we were welcome to stay the night for free as the office wasn’t open until tomorrow. Bonus! Our growling bellies told us it was time for lunch and conveniently enough, the marina had a highly recommended restaurant right above our slip. While dining on meals that lived up to their reputation, we met Norm and Jan, two other full-time cruisers and swapped sailor stories, advice and laughs. The evening wrapped up with an invigorating 6 mile jog/walk along the beach and over the Biloxi Bay Bridge with some local musicians playing bongos next to a large bonfire on the beach.

Taking a break on the Biloxi Bay Bridge

Oil Oil Everywhere

This morning we awoke to a diversion from the start of our daily routine. Matt started the motor and almost instantly alarms shrieked with protest. Upon shutting down the engine, and opening the engine bay, we discovered that our diesel had barfed oil everywhere. The source was from where the oil filter meets the engine housing. This wasn’t a good sign but Matt thought perhaps it had too much oil (from topping it off that morning), so he changed filter to ensure there was the correct amount of oil and tried starting it again. Within seconds, the oily mess to be cleaned doubled. An engine losing oil is never a good sign and we quickly thought through our options: find a tow to a marina that was 12 miles North (unlikely in such a remote location), sail the 12 miles North (risky in a windy, narrow channel with barges and little wind), or stick with our safe anchorage and figure out the problem (though it might be challenging to get a mechanic out to the boat). We started making calls to mechanics back in Kemah looking for a referral, to immediate family as there was extended family in the area and to our new cruising friends, the Sittons. After about an hour of playing phone chase from one referral to another, Matt was able to speak with a mechanic who knew our engine. From the described symptoms, he suggested checking the oil pressure relief valve, which is the same conclusion Matt had come to after reading a technical manual on board.

Captain, aka diesel mechanic

The soonest a mechanic could be out was Monday, so with nothing to lose but time, Matt began to take apart the motor to get at the potential problem valve. After a few hours of work, a dinghy ride to a nearby boat launch ramp and store for some tools (that didn’t end up fitting), he discovered the relief valve was indeed stuck. In fact, jammed like a semi having gone under too low of a bridge. Another hour or so of tapping, tinkering and talking with the mechanic and Rusty Sitton, he freed the stuck valve! Feeling good, we called about getting a new part, upon which we learned that it would be at least four weeks to get from the factory. We were in a pretty anchorage but not close enough to the tropics, so Matt took some sandpaper (once long ago borrowed from our boat neighbors on s/v Ebb Tide) and sanded the part and housing smooth again so they wouldn’t jam. The engine was put back together just before dark and, other than some borrowed gasket sealant from a boat that came into the anchorage, we clawed closer to fixing the problem with supplies onboard. Another filter change, oil fill and with great trepidation, we tried starting the motor. Chug, Chug, Chug, vroom. No alarms. No oil barfs. Just a running motor! After running for about 20 minutes we were back in business.

After the boat and grease camouflaged captain were cleaned up, we reflected on the laborious day. Though engine problems are never good, it was a great boost in confidence that we were able to get back up and running, in a remote anchorage, and be able to continue on our journey. Though we may have done the work ourselves, but it wouldn’t have been possible without all the help we received. Thank you to our family for being ready on a dime to drive parts out, their constant encouragement and loving support to keep our spirits up. Our deepest gratitude to Rusty and Linda Sitton, who talked us through solving the problem in the middle of the work day, hooked us up with a great mechanic, offered continued support and even lined up a tow boat should we have needed it. And thanks to Eddie at Oleander Marine and Russel at Colemar services, who both offered valuable advice and guidance in repairing the problem. Most of all, to the Lord, we are eternally appreciative for answering our prayers and keeping us moving along on the journey. The adventure has truly begun.

N 29° 58.71/ W 98° 42.04

Crossing Our First Lock

We’re writing this post from a beautiful oxbow anchorage on the Mermentau River, just off the ICW. Despite the lack of sailing today, it was actually a great day with gorgeous weather and light traffic. It felt like we had the entire waterway to ourselves. We went through our first lock (Calcasieu) and a few pontoon bridges, that you have to call ahead of time to open up for you and listen for the all clear whistle (one long, one short). We’ve been using the auto pilot, now named R2-D2 for its funny beeps and blips, and just keeping an eye out for alligators (still no luck). In between bridges and passing tugs, we read, played Uno and enjoyed each other’s company.

Calcasieu Lock

So far, the pattern seems to be motor sail by day, anchor at night, get up early and repeat to gain the most miles we can under the daylight we’re given. We’ll keep it up till we get to past New Orleans and into Mississippi Sound.

Enjoying a peaceful anchorage

N 29° 58.71/ W 98° 42.04

Sun Rises Again On Day 2

Day 2 was a long run down Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, GIWW, and after seeing mostly brown water, low grass and flat lands, we can see why it got the nickname “the ditch.” But it’s teeming with wildlife, especially herons and other beautiful birds so we had company along the way.

Matt piloting Kaleo in a long straight line

The cruising guides rumor of alligators and we’re really hoping to see one, but no luck yet. Taylor Outfall Bayou, our anchorage for the night, came along quickly enough and setting the anchor went well. The rest of the evening was spent soaking up a spectacular sunset from our secluded little anchorage, cooking a butternut squash, carrot and celery cinnamon butter stir fry. We wrapped up the day with a fierce mosquito battle and despite our initial wounds, we’re thankful for our new bug screens to keep us protected from the swarming marsh.

N 29° 49.87/ W 93° 53.49

Sunset at Taylor Outfall Bayou

Working To Get There

We have so much to share about preparing to cruise but with working 100% at our jobs and 100% on or sailing Kaleo on the weekends, we’ve had little time to blog about it.

We’re excited to say that Kaleo is closer than ever to being cruise ready!

In the past couple of weeks we’ve:

  • Solidified our initial cruising route. Details to come.
  • Learned a ton about provisioning (SSU Provisioning course) and have started building our master provisioning list.
  • Taken a cruising first aid course, and with the help of Matt’s paramedic/firefighter brother decided on our ship’s medical kit, the Marine 1000.
  • Completed the design of Kaleo’s electrical system (which needs to be redone) with help from Scott at SLTF Marine.
  • Chosen the best anchor chain (5/16” G40) and length (200 ft) to replace Kaleo’s current rusted chain and rope rode.
  • Decided on our integrated communications setup after watching Communications Alternatives for Cruisers on Seven Seas U. We are forgoing a satellite phone, and starting out with a WiFi extender, international cell phone that accepts local SIM cards, Skype, the SPOT tracker, SSB receiver and of course VHF.
  • Learned more about the optimal fridge/freezer setup through another SSU class. We’ve decided to test our current system out for a few months before re-insulating the fridge.

There is still much to learn and a few final decisions to make, like settling on our chart plotter and solar panels.

We’re also still debating (and exhaustively researching) a hot water heater and watermaker. Any guidance or experience you’ve had with or without them is always welcome.

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