Emerald Rock and O’Briens Cay

Turns out Warderick Wells had more for us to see before we would continue on southward.

Planning to be at Bell Island by noon, we dropped our mooring ball at Warderick Wells and motored out towards open water. The wind was blowing at about 18-20 knots (a bit stronger than forecast) and almost dead on the nose. When combined with 3-4 seas it made a very uncomfortable ride. Waves were coming over the bow and the wind would blow the water, soaking the jib. After about 30 minutes of bashing toward our destination, we conferred with Storyville on the VHF and decided to turn in for Emerald Rock. Everyone agreed that the sailing wasn’t particularly fun and we weren’t interested in getting beat up all day. So, both boats picked up a mooring ball at Emerald Rock, which is only about a half mile from Warderick Wells and shares the same island.

With boats secured, we packed lunches and headed for the beach. Morning slipped leisurely into late afternoon as we lounged under a canopy of shade trees surrounded by waves gently lapping toward us in front and rocky cliffs leading to hiking trails behind.

In need of a few more cold drinks and to square up our additional night on the ball, Christie took the dinghy out with Deana and started to get comfortable driving it on her own. Later on, Matt said he knew we were having fun as he heard the dingy motor rev to full throttle in no time.

During the day we had spotted a floating swim platform tied to a mooring ball just off the beach and agreed that it was the perfect spot to watch for the green flash at sunset. The invite was passed to a few other nearby boats who quickly joined us. Troy brought his guitar, new friends were made and we all enjoyed the impromptu concert. Though the green flash was elusive, sunset was gorgeous and the company was superb. After dark, we and Storyville stayed on the dock till way past Matt’s bedtime. But it became one our favorite cruising nights so far, as the conversations turned to life, living and doing it all unconventionally. It was fun looking back on the start of the day to see how not sticking to a schedule or plan led to some of the best times yet.

Saturday morning, CP (Chris Parker) gave a clear forecast and the conditions looked benign so we dropped the mooring ball early and picked up where we left off yesterday. The sea was calm and we were back on our way to Bell Island. After dropping the hook and surveying the anchorage we decided it really wasn’t a great spot and decided to look for another. It was a small area right in front of a private island that we weren’t allowed ashore and there wasn’t any snorkeling nearby so plan b was in order.

The next spot on our list was O’Brien Cay but first we had to pass through the most narrow cut yet. Kaleo had to be guided through a narrow underwater ditch about 20 feet wide, with rocks on one side and a shallow shoal on the other. The depth on the chart showed only about 2 feet under the keel. Storyville, who has a much shallower draft, was kind enough to go first and check the depths. After an “all clear” on the VHF from them and with Christie on the bow to watch for underwater obstructions and give guidance accordingly, Matt motored us slowly through the cut. Shouting directions like “A little to port, not so much, ok, forward, back toward starboard” we snuck through the cut unscathed and a lot more confident for having done it.

A bit later we dropped the hook next to a deserted but private island and had lunch on deck. With dinghies packed with snorkel gear, we scooted toward the Sea Aquarium Coral Garden marked on the chart. A few minutes of mental coaxing to brave the relatively cold water and we dove in to be instantaneously surrounded by Sargent Majors (little yellow striped fish). The water was alive with vibrant and curious schools of reef fish scurrying to our swim pace throughout the coral. A stingray hovered near the sea floor and neon blue fish darted back and forth each time we kicked a flipper. The natural wonder quickly erased our cold water worry and click, click, click, went our new underwater camera. Most of the time the fish were so thick that we could barely get a picture of each other underwater without our photogenic little friends taking up most of the frame.

After our fill of snorkeling the reef, we set out to find a submerged plane nearby. About 200 yards from where Kaleo was anchored we spotted a buoy marking the site of the plane silently rusting away under the water’s surface. It was a little too creepy to fully dive in but we hung over the dinghy, tucking slightly underwater to see the fuselage and wings resting upside down, a telltale from some fateful event.

After getting cleaned up we made plans to cook Chicken Vindaloo aboard Kaleo for Deana and Troy. After dinner and mapping out next route, it was off to bed with plans for an early departure toward Staniel Cay to find a spot to watch the Superbowl.

24° 23.07 N / 76° 37.48 W